fluids
What I use
Engine: 5w-30 Castrol Edge
Trans: lifeguard 6
transfer case: Royal purple Synchromax
diffs(open) Shell Spirax 75/90
LR recommendations (from workshop manual)
Engine: Use 5W/30 oil meeting Specification WSS-M2C205-A (GF3) and 'Certified for Gasoline Engines'
by the American Petroleum Institute (API).
Trans: Shell M13754
Transfer case: Shell TF 0753
Diffs open:Castrol SAF-XO - 75W/90
Electronic torque managed (ETM) unit: Castrol SAF Carbon Mod Plus
Engine: 5w-30 Castrol Edge
Trans: lifeguard 6
transfer case: Royal purple Synchromax
diffs(open) Shell Spirax 75/90
LR recommendations (from workshop manual)
Engine: Use 5W/30 oil meeting Specification WSS-M2C205-A (GF3) and 'Certified for Gasoline Engines'
by the American Petroleum Institute (API).
Trans: Shell M13754
Transfer case: Shell TF 0753
Diffs open:Castrol SAF-XO - 75W/90
Electronic torque managed (ETM) unit: Castrol SAF Carbon Mod Plus
Im using Shell Rotella T6 for oil and Royal Purples for the diff's and transfer case. Pentosin for the power steering fluid with good results. Here is a good link that was very helpful to me.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...entials-40293/
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...entials-40293/
Rear Diff: 'Open' differential 1.1 litres (1.9 pints) (1.15 US quarts)
Electronic torque managed (ETM) differential 1.5 litres (2.6 pints) (1.5 US quarts)
Front Diff: 0.61 litres (1.07 pints) (0.64 US quarts)
Transfer case: 1.5 litres, (2.6 pints) (1.5 US quarts)
Engine: Dry fill including filter 8 litres (14 pints) (8.5 US quarts)
Oil and filter change 7.7 litres (13.6 pints) (8.1 US quarts)
Amount of oil required to bring the level from the lower to the upper holes on the
dipstick 1.5 litres (2.6 pints) (1.5 US quarts)
Transmission: + Initial dry fill 9.5 litres (16.7 pints) (10.0 US qts). If changing the filter and refilling I believe it's around 6 qts.
Electronic torque managed (ETM) differential 1.5 litres (2.6 pints) (1.5 US quarts)
Front Diff: 0.61 litres (1.07 pints) (0.64 US quarts)
Transfer case: 1.5 litres, (2.6 pints) (1.5 US quarts)
Engine: Dry fill including filter 8 litres (14 pints) (8.5 US quarts)
Oil and filter change 7.7 litres (13.6 pints) (8.1 US quarts)
Amount of oil required to bring the level from the lower to the upper holes on the
dipstick 1.5 litres (2.6 pints) (1.5 US quarts)
Transmission: + Initial dry fill 9.5 litres (16.7 pints) (10.0 US qts). If changing the filter and refilling I believe it's around 6 qts.
Open diffs can use off the shelf synthetic gear oil. I'm not cool enough to own a rear locker, so if you've got that, I'd stick with the Land Rover fluid.
I've used Mercon SP from o'reilly in the automatic transmission, it's the fluid ford specifies for the same transmission when installed in their cars. It's about $5 per quart instead of $25. Others have mentioned using the BG universal ATF, it's listed as compatible on their list. Its about $8 a quart I think.
The transfer case, I'd personally stick with the Land Rover stuff, no one seems to list an equivalent at the moment.
I've used Mercon SP from o'reilly in the automatic transmission, it's the fluid ford specifies for the same transmission when installed in their cars. It's about $5 per quart instead of $25. Others have mentioned using the BG universal ATF, it's listed as compatible on their list. Its about $8 a quart I think.
The transfer case, I'd personally stick with the Land Rover stuff, no one seems to list an equivalent at the moment.
Reading in one of the links above I saw royal purple Max gear 75w /90 listed for open diff so I got that
Drained the rear diff, it only had what I would call a few cups super thin contaminated gear oil
Left drain a while sprayed out best I could with brake clean, unplugged vent and blew into rear and into the line with air
Iine both seemed clear so it looked like moisture contaminated the fluid, lots of metal and sludge on the drain guess I better do the front too
Drained the rear diff, it only had what I would call a few cups super thin contaminated gear oil
Left drain a while sprayed out best I could with brake clean, unplugged vent and blew into rear and into the line with air
Iine both seemed clear so it looked like moisture contaminated the fluid, lots of metal and sludge on the drain guess I better do the front too
From Royal Purple:
http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/a..._Reference.pdf
If you have a rear locker, I'd stick with the Land Rover fluid.
http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/a..._Reference.pdf
If you have a rear locker, I'd stick with the Land Rover fluid.


