My LR3 will lower down if parked after about 3 days. Based on that, I'm assuming it is a relatively small leak. I pulled the EAS fuse and after 3 days, it was clear that the problem is in the front right corner.

The front right air strut has likely been replaced recently (by PO) as it is aftermarket and looks new. I've used soapy water to spray the strut and the valve block and neither appear to be leaking.

Since I couldn't find a leak, I swapped in a known good front valve block just to eliminate that as a problem. Changing the valve block did not solve the issue. I have also already done a calibration with the GAP tool.

Does anyone have recommendations on how to check if the air fitting on the top is leaking? I can't really see it from the top or from the side. Are there any other common leak points on or around the front strut area?

 

Ditto, me too, right front drops, then left.., new valve block, new reservoir block, no bubbles with soapy water. ... any answers? I'm tearing down the front air system this weekend to see what I can find

 

Since there is no pressure on any part of the system other than the strut and the air lines leading to the valve block when fuse 26 is pulled, you really only have a few places that can leak.

Based upon the parts already replaced, I suspect the strut or the line between it and the valve block are leaking.

Also during your recheck, make sure the front valve block is plumbed correctly. The green line goes in the bottom fitting, the black line with the white band goes in the lower fitting on the side and the plain black line goes in the upper fitting on the side.

Of course you could swap the struts and see if the left one drops, thus confirming if it is the strut or air lines.

Hope this helps
Jeff

 

Many thanks Jeff! I'll try your suggestions this weekend

 

Found the culprit ! One of the voss fittings was leaking at the front valve block (to the right strut). It was leaking through the threads, The leak would "puff" out of the threads so forcefully that the soap blew away without bubbles. I found it accidentally by feeling the air come out while fiddling about. This was the new aftermarket valve block. The threads don't look stripped, and as I recall I push fit the line into the voss fitting when I installed it.

I refit the old valve block and used teflon tape on the threads for good measure. Overnight with fuse removed, the left front dropped .008m, about 1/3", the right front only dropped .003m. Left rear dropped .001m, right rear didn't drop at all.

Thanks for the input Jeff!

 

Started dropping again. I found a new leak at the pressure sensor and replaced its o-ring. That helped a little. The compressor was replaced 3 years ago. Last year, I refreshed.the piston seals and o-rings. It's been noisy lately, so I decided to check the piston and found the head bearing loose in all directions. I've replaced the piston, and though I still got the "filling slowly" error, it's been standing tall with fuse removed, no drop. I like the air ride but I've wasted too many weekends diagnosing and fixing it. New valve blocks, new reservoir block, fixed drier leak, new drier, new dessicant x 2, new voss fitting to replace one that blew on an airbag, rebuilt compressor, new compressor, re-rebuilt compressor,.. sheesh!.

 

It’s very easy to get annoyed with the air system, I think we’ve all been there chasing down a minor leak. You end up spending weekends refreshing small things which eat up an inordinate amount of time to access. In the end, you’ve touched most parts of the system and it’s good to go (for a while?). Once it’s working properly and you are comfortable with your repairs, it is very nice to have.