The front and rear sensors are different so hopefully you did not get them mixed up

 

Reading the last couple pages makes me want to face palm so hard....

You said the sensors are new, dealer install? New sensors means they need to be calibrated. And for an alignment, sensor must be calibrated before if you want things aligned properly otherwise if you calibrate after your aliment will be off Also when they do aliments there is no way they could have twisted a bushing, that's now how alignments are done. They are tightened at the aligned specification, they dont have the suspension hanging or something. I also assume the place that did the aliment had the air suspension set in tight tolerance? Also the suspension values on the software I use are arbitrary. Like any potentiometer made they are slight variances between them. So two sensors in the exact same position may be the exact same resistance value. This is why the calibration is done physically, measuring and adjusting the corners as needed keeping very simple physics in mind - lowing one corner will raise the opposite. Once the vehicle is leveled properly you then you have a baseline value of the sensors to work from - a zero level point. And with the software I use, values are not in millimeters - again because the displayed values are arbitrary. GAP I thought "zeroes" them out after calibration so when you go to adjust heigh 0 - 0 is basically stock level height, then you adjust down or up from there which is approximate to millimeters (using maths and stuff). Quick example, my neighbors LR3 is dead level to factory spec. Left Front= 190, Right Front=177 and the Left Rear= 189, Right Rear=172. My own truck has different values when level but like his they are not matching side to side, etc. At least its good to know your suspension issues are resolved now that you are onto height calibration.

 

I started typing something similar, Dakota, but, then I just carried on living my life.

Mostly because I know the GAP. I don't know the iLand and can't really comment on its use. I still do not think an alignment is required after a calibration. Probably a good idea, really, but it is not required. I'd bet a case of beer on that. Good beer, too...not that midwest crap beer.

 

I never said it was required (already driving some of them beers, eh? ) But It depends on how much calibration is needed, especially if one side is lower than the other. Its simply true that changing heights throws the alignment off, physics cant get round that. While its exaggerated in access or off-road height, its easy to see how much if affected by height. So if the calibration is minor, sure its not required per say since one can easily live with and not notice a slightly bad alignment. But if there is something more than maybe a half-inch, I would at the very least get the aliment checked after calibration to make sure tires dont get ate up. I would know since I chewed up one set where I had an alignment (LR dealer said it was fine, so they did nothing) but then I decided to calibrate to a new height. It took a couple years but my tires were pretty worn on the outside compared to the inside front and rear. I knew better, just never got around to getting an alignment after the adjustment.

 

...that if the calibration were off so bad that there was noticeable height difference and the vehicle is aligned per that bad calibration, then the calibration is changed, that would make sense.

I guess I've never just rocked a bad calibration for a prolonged period like that.

...if you're ever in Seattle and I'm able to (schedule wise), I'll buy ya that beer!

 

On the ride height. The shop claimed that they used tight tol mode but I doubt it. They aligned it 3 years ago with the new lower front control arms and the car seemed ok but 12,000 miles and all tires were burned up on the inside edges. Got new tires and new front struts. They aligned it again. Now the car feels like it is driving on its toes -- tons of over steer. Push DSC and it is slightly better but still bad. Because of all the problems, I installed all new ABS sensors, ride height sensors, compressor, all 3 valves, relays, acceleration module, new H8 AGM battery, brake switch, OEM tail light bulbs, etc. Removed Ride Level CM visual inspection all good. Pulled RF wheel well and tore back the wiring harness only to find it as new.
According to the info I have found, the nominal service height (from the hub center to the fender trim edge) should be:
FRONT 473mm + 2mm 18.622" + .0787"
REAR 483mm + 2mm 19.016" + .0787"
I used the Autel pro scanner to get into height calibration mode. It opened the cross link valves and from there, I took the measurements:
LF 472 RF 466 18.583" (,039 under spec) 18.347" (.257" under spec)
LR 473 RR 479 18.622" (.394 under spec) 18.858" (.158" under spec)
Next, I imputed the measured heights in the appropriate windows and went to NEXT. It said the numbers were out of range and would not let me do anything.
Later, I checked the ride level control module with the icarsoft and got:
LF .157" RF -.472" 3.988mm -11.988mm
LR -.433 RR 0.00" -10.998mm 0.0mm
Raised to off road level I get:
LF 2.008" RF 1.457" 51.003mm 37.008mm
LR 1.457" RR 2.126" 37.008mm 54.000mm

 

I think you should just take it to a dealer and have them calibrate it, then align it. Done and done.

 

DSC will do absolutely nothing to the ride quality from an alignment. Thats in your head.

"Removed Ride Level CM" - long day for me, but not sure what that means.

"Pulled RF wheel well and tore back the wiring harness only to find it as new." - again clarify or expand on that if you could.

Not sure why you are opening your cross-link valves, that sorta loosens the tolerances for height. So if a side is low, opening cross-link will raise it. I have never read that they cross-link should be open for calibration. You should be in tight tolerance and calibrate when in that mode.

Again, those numbers are arbitrary. If a side needs to go up a little, do adjustments of not more than 5 values. You are NOT entering anything that translates directly to millimeters.

 

IDK on DSC but the car seemed to not have quite so much over steer. Might be in my mind

Removed the ride level control module, opened it, checked it, reconnected it. Also tried another RL control module but got vin mismatch errors galore

RF wheel well liner. there are the three connections near the frame rail against the firewall that people have reported finding corrosion. One plug is the compressor motor, the others are wheel sensors, etc. In this case, they looked as built no signs of anything.

When I went to set ride height, the AUTEL said opening cross link valves. It was in their ride height procedure program path. Interestingly enough, when the cross links opened, the car moved a noticeable amount.
I am waiting for the GAP tool. Should be here in 3 days or less.

Does the abs unit need to be vin matched?

 

You mean LF, that is why I was confused. The connectors on at the left/front driver wheel well at its back side. If you have the updated splash guard, there is much less risk of any rubbing of wires.

No clue on ABS unit, but if you mean the mechanical end I doubt it. Even the ECU I would doubt. Might need calibration after swapping?

The reason why cross-linking open for calibration makes no sense is because like you said, it will shift.