Good evening. First time posting here. Hoping someone here can point me in the general direction of where to focus my efforts. I have a 2007 LR3 SE with the V8. While driving my LR3, I get the warning "HDC Fault System Not Available" with the following lights coming on the dash (ignore the TPS light. That was flashes then goes solid every time I drive. I am getting them replaced this week):



Then about 3 seconds later, the dash beeps again and a new alert of "System Fault Special Programs Not Available":



About 5 seconds after that the dash alarms again and states "Special Programs Off" with an added dash light:



And finally, about 3 seconds after that it alarms again and states "Suspension Lowered":



The vehicle doesn't drive any differently other than it is lowered, but it will still let me drive highway speeds. Putting the LR3 in park, turning it off, then turning it back on and setting it back to normal ride height fixes it until it inevitably happens again. I don't lose any air in the suspension when parked overnight. It has happened pretty sparingly over the last 4 months or so, but in the last week you can drive more than 10 mins or so before it happens.

I tried searching for this topic here last night but was unsuccessful, (maybe i searched wrong?). Just from reading here last night, it seems like the slightest electrical issue can throw the entire vehicle out of whack. One issue to note that may be related: my back windows do not work. They randomly start working again here and there, but more often then not they do not work. Its always both the rear drivers side and passenger side working or not working in unison.

Anyone have any recommendations on where to start?

 

You need the codes read but a good start is to check your battery voltage both with engine running and with vehicle off for an hour or so, stick a charger on it overnight and see if you get the same string of faults the next day.

 

Yeah....after that, check all your brake lights and tail lights. If those are good, you likely need a new Brake Switch. Cheap part, and easy install. It could also be the Steering Angle Sensor (same symptoms) so to loanrangie's point, the codes would help.

 

See above for where to start for the HDC issues.

I don't think the window issue is related.
Which switches stop working? the ones in the rear doors? or just the Master driver switch? or All?

My window issue was only the Master driver switch not working the rears UP (down was fine) - but individual doors worked UP and down.
A used, tested new OEM master switched fixed my problem.

Have you tried the window reset - I believe you just hold each window switch UP, until you hear a faint click.
At least start with that.

 

thank you. I will certainly look into the battery. I replaced the battery less than 6 months ago so hopefully that isn’t the issue.

 

Great insight thank you. I checked the Brake lights and tail lights and all are functional. I will work on getting the codes then circling back.

 

All switches stop working, and by all I mean the two rear switches at the master driver switch as well as both individual window switches. Unsurprisingly, the master driver switch does randomly work, so do the door switches in the back.

I tried the window reset from the master switch and it did not work. To be fair, I held both switches up at the same time so maybe I should try one at a time.

 

I battled a HDC issue and eventually gave in and had a Rover shop fix it. It ended up being a bad wire from the center console area to the driver side steering column area. If I had the time I could have tracked it down but at the time this issue came up I had a 1 month old and a 2 year old so free time was out of the question.

Like other people have said start by getting the fault codes, then check your brake switch and your battery. If you plan on keeping the truck for a while I highly recommend getting a GAP Tool from Lucky8. It can do fault codes, programming and software changes.

 

brought it in to my mechanic and they replaced the brake switch, but the problem still persists (though not nearly as frequently). I forget to ask what the fault codes were.


I will order the gap tool.

 

Could be a battery and/or a battery ground issue since the problem is better with the new switch. These trucks seem to be very voltage sensitive so if something isn’t getting the right voltage you may have problems.