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Heater issue/ Blend door or Heater Core

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Old Apr 26, 2019 | 10:10 PM
  #1  
Philip Chan's Avatar
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Mudding
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From: Mission, BC, Canada
Default Heater issue/ Blend door or Heater Core

Hi - first off, I've searched the forum here for answers - tried most fixes (as you'll see below) but am still puzzled.

So the driver's side is the culprit. I only get cold air blowing. I tried the easy fix and flushed my heater core - CLR'd it overnight and then rinsed and reverse flushed.

Still no heat on the drivers side.

These things I know:
  1. Passenger side is ok. Will switch from hot to cold and back.
  2. Foot damper, side/front vents and defrost are all ok and operational.
  3. Rear climate control works and blows hot/cold.
I played with the controls with the air "off", moving the **** from cold to hot and back. I can her the motor moving the damper. Whether it travels all the way or gets stuck I do not know.

I also recently got a GAP tool - this is what it tells me:





So from what I can tell, it's saying there are faults - but I know that most of these are not faults because they work.

I still don't have heat on the drivers side though.

I have also done the reset (Econ/recirc buttons)

Any ideas? Is my heater core done?

Phil
 
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Old Apr 27, 2019 | 12:43 AM
  #2  
DakotaTravler's Avatar
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From: Green Bay, WI
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Im going to say that if you flushed your core and there was NO change, its probably not the core. But how did you loss heat? Was is gradual or sudden? Also I am not certain if the heater core is at all accessible from the driver side. But since I am a little crazy, I would be tempted to drill a small hole so I could probe the temperature of the core on that side. Then seal it up.

Not sure if these will help you:




 
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Old May 8, 2019 | 08:16 PM
  #3  
Philip Chan's Avatar
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Mudding
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From: Mission, BC, Canada
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It wasn't a sudden loss nor gradual- it was purchased like that, so have no idea.


Strange though, the entire drivers side (including the rear vents on the centre console) blow cold - not hot. Passenger side isn't an issue... I find there is SOME heat very early perceptible, but I knot it's no HOT.

Both pipes on the heater core are pretty much the same temp. I guess which doesn't rule it out - nor does it mean it is. sigh...
 

Last edited by Philip Chan; May 8, 2019 at 08:18 PM. Reason: mistakesssssss
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Old May 8, 2019 | 08:57 PM
  #4  
DakotaTravler's Avatar
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From: Green Bay, WI
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Well the way the core works is there is one inlet/outlet. They are on the same side. Unlike my BMW which has one core but its separated and there are two supply, one return hose. So with the Rover design, imagine it as a curve in a river. Sediment falls to the outside of the bend. In this case, the driver side. The more you get, the worse it gets as that Side gets blocked up.

But I still think its a blend door, #7. Because of the split nature of the system, there are two doors for each function. So there are two blend doors. And you do have a code. You may have to dive into the dash and poke around.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2019 | 11:42 AM
  #5  
Michael Barton-Gawryn's Avatar
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Philip were you able to get any resolution on this? I'm having similar issues with my LR4.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2019 | 12:14 PM
  #6  
abran's Avatar
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From: Huntington Beach CA
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We have seen that you can get blend door codes from a vehicle with a clogged heater core. My theory is that after repeatedly asking for warmer air and not getting it, the 3 throws a blend door code. If you can clear the codes for blend doors, then drive the vehicle for lets say 20 miles asking for it to get warmer and cooler and you don't have blend door codes. it could very well be the heater core.

I have flushed 3 now, 2 had blend door codes and the heat was much improved.

Good luck
 
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Old Oct 10, 2019 | 01:12 PM
  #7  
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Abran - Of the 3 that you've reversed flushed, did you use any cleaners? Or just water?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2019 | 03:12 PM
  #8  
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The first one I used a small amount of CLR. Hooked up 2 clear hoses to the heater core, poured CLR in one hose, then blew it into the heater core and let it sifter 10 minutes, then started flushing one way, then another.

The last 2 I bought a MAC heater core flush too and used BG cooling system cleanerl. The tool uses shop air to create a venturi with a trigger. I would pulse the trigger every 30 seconds slightly.

The goal it to not break the heater core, but also get enough pressure too flush.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2019 | 03:13 PM
  #9  
abran's Avatar
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Although I still had 5-8 degree difference in het from the vents, the heat was much improved. It also helps to put the system on Econ mode so it shuts the AC down.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2019 | 02:57 PM
  #10  
Husker's Avatar
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So I was leaning toward a new heater core myself, but...when I call for heat on the vents, I only get heat from one - the passenger one just to the right of the radio. The other passenger vent is lukewarm, as are both driver's side vents. On the defrost and the floor, I'm getting lukewarm on the driver's side, hot on the passenger's side. It seems if I had a bad heater core, I wouldn't be getting lukewarm air from the passenger vent next to the door, would I?

Cold air is fine.
 
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