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I would ignore the transfer case fault for now, I tend to think those are just random Rover codes that love to come up and mean no actual problem. Pretty common really.
You have a leak or the compressor is failing to get that code. One common leak point is on the compressor's dryer cap. The large black thing with two lines. Spray some water and look right between were the lines enter, a crack usually "connects" the two.
I would ignore the transfer case fault for now, I tend to think those are just random Rover codes that love to come up and mean no actual problem. Pretty common really.
You have a leak or the compressor is failing to get that code. One common leak point is on the compressor's dryer cap. The large black thing with two lines. Spray some water and look right between were the lines enter, a crack usually "connects" the two.
That was the job I did two years ago and put on a new alu cap, and rebuilt the compressor, dryer, etc. But now when the comp fires briefly at startup and during the GAP valve test it sounds much quieter now and like no air is being compressed. It normally hums at a "medium" volume. If I had to guess, the piston or connecting rod have failed.
Good to know the transfer case fault is probably not the controller failing.
I also need to troubleshoot the height sensors some day...
You can remove the metal cap without dropping the compressor to inspect the crank if you want. I think three screws then some sealant to deal with. Pretty easy to take a peak. its also possible the exhaust port is stuck open so the air is just heading right out, without pressure to build the compressor is also a bit quieter.
I doubt you sensors are an issue since the codes did not come back. Keep in mind these systems LOVE to through erroneous fault codes. And some of the EAS fault codes are inferred. My neighbors LR3 had a compressor issue. We now know for 100% certain it was the root of all evil. But when working the system it would randomly "think" the truck was hung up on something and go into extended mode. The weirdest thing and in theory nothing should have caused it. But the compressor was running enough to lift but not too slow to cause a low pressure fault some somewhere in between the truck thought it was hung up. Of course he bought a cheap compressor so it lasted about a year and this was the one causing issues. So then we hacked three parts compressors to make one good one. It did for a few months as expected. Finally got another cheap new one and it was causing issues from day one, the temperature sensor was bad. Took one off a donor compressor and all it well again.... at least for now. College kid he is, can't spend much. I myself bought a new Hitachi and never have issues.
You can remove the metal cap without dropping the compressor to inspect the crank if you want. I think three screws then some sealant to deal with. Pretty easy to take a peak. its also possible the exhaust port is stuck open so the air is just heading right out, without pressure to build the compressor is also a bit quieter.
The exhaust port could be stuck open? Lord that could be the problem. First I've heard of this.
You have two exhaust "ports" in a way. One is tiny and cheap to replace. Its rest on the reed valve of the piston. Small, rubber and when it fails the compressor will just leak into the exhaust port. Then you have the solenoid controlled exhaust port with mechanical backup pressure valve thingy. I am not using all the right terms. If debris gets into this it can jam, usually dryer desiccant will do but I have seen a failing piston thrown debris in there causing it to get jammed open a little. Like a hole in a drinking straw, it does not take much.
You have two exhaust "ports" in a way. One is tiny and cheap to replace. Its rest on the reed valve of the piston. Small, rubber and when it fails the compressor will just leak into the exhaust port. Then you have the solenoid controlled exhaust port with mechanical backup pressure valve thingy. I am not using all the right terms. If debris gets into this it can jam, usually dryer desiccant will do but I have seen a failing piston thrown debris in there causing it to get jammed open a little. Like a hole in a drinking straw, it does not take much.
That's it, I'm ripping the system out tomorrow. Tell me one thing - one of the air hoses was stuck like crazy the last time I tried to pull it. I gave up. How do you pull a stuck hose out of the tank fitting? I already tried penetrating fluid. Heat it up?
If you pull any of the lines, you damage them and guess what - they can leak because not the surface has scoring. The lines are to be gently pushed in along with the collet. With the collet down/in you now pull gently on the line. The collet ring, when pushed inward, presses on a metal insert with "teeth" that bite the line. More pressure, more bite. But pushing the collet backs it off the line so you can easily pull it out. But two things damage them, being pulled on too hard without being backed off and of course corrosion.
Now you may also be talking about the intake/exhaust lines. The exhaust port on these can actually fuse with the fricken hose. So much heat/vibration and its game over. And you should not unthread the exhaust port cap fitting, they are often stripped and impossible to put back on. I now recommend that if the lines do not come off easy to simply fine a straight section and cut them. Then just get a couple push-connect couplers to use instead. I think one is 8mm and the other 10mm. A lot of home improvement stores have push connects, you would just have to find the equivalent imperial conversion. There is no pressure in the intake/exhaust lines anyway so cutting, splicing is no big deal.
If you pull any of the lines, you damage them and guess what - they can leak because not the surface has scoring. The lines are to be gently pushed in along with the collet. With the collet down/in you now pull gently on the line. The collet ring, when pushed inward, presses on a metal insert with "teeth" that bite the line. More pressure, more bite. But pushing the collet backs it off the line so you can easily pull it out. But two things damage them, being pulled on too hard without being backed off and of course corrosion.
Now you may also be talking about the intake/exhaust lines. The exhaust port on these can actually fuse with the fricken hose. So much heat/vibration and its game over. And you should not unthread the exhaust port cap fitting, they are often stripped and impossible to put back on. I now recommend that if the lines do not come off easy to simply fine a straight section and cut them. Then just get a couple push-connect couplers to use instead. I think one is 8mm and the other 10mm. A lot of home improvement stores have push connects, you would just have to find the equivalent imperial conversion. There is no pressure in the intake/exhaust lines anyway so cutting, splicing is no big deal.
I'm referring to the hoses that are toward the back of the truck (is it one or two?). Whatever it is, the big one is STUCK. Please let that be the low pressure exhaust hose. I don't mind cutting that bastard.
Yeah, those two bastards in the back and intake/exhaust. Probably some pressure when exhausting but really they are big enough that its not much. Also when disconnect you can sorta test the compressor with your finger over the hoses. Again the smaller should be intake, larger exhaust - I think, been a while.
