My wife was driving the LR3 last week when all of a sudden every oh-**** light came on - the suspension lowered, went into limp mode, so she parked it and called me. Sure enough I tested battery and it was bad - went to get a new one and most of the oh-**** lights went off but I still have the HDC error and the yellow triangle with an explanation mark inside and circle around - with these errors it is turning off Special Features and keeps the suspension on the bumper stops and keeps the engine locked in low gear (so I can only go 80kmh at the fastest).

I know the brake switch can cause all sorts of problems, but mine is fairly new as I recently it about a year ago so doubt that is the issue. I need some advice what to do next please.

BTW - I bought a Nexus obdii reader specific for Land Rover hoping it would allow me to erase some of these errors - unfortunately the reader is giving me errors - not sure if it is the reader but I did send the seller an inquiry.

Also to add confusion - the display is telling me to apply handbrake. why would it be saying that - is that the method to erase the hdc fault? I ask cause I can't apply the hand brake being the hand brake has not been working for years now - do I need to fix my hand brake to erase hdc error code?

Also I now noticed the yellow BRAKE warning light is on - I suspect the pads are low and I wore through one of the sensors - this is an easy replacement but my question is whether the sensors for brake pads could cause the hdc faults or some of the other issues I have now.

Thanks

 

Here is what I would do:

Get your brakes replaced AND get your park brake fixed. Then get an IIDTool and return that other reader. See where that leaves you. Also check all your tail/brake lights to ensure they are functioning.

 

Check your alternator is charging correctly.

 

Checked the alt - it is fine. Checked the brake lights/bulbs - they all work. I removed the transfer case module and saw no signs of corrosion on the plug or terminals - though I still opened it up to see if an obvious signs of burnt chips - everything looked great inside so put it back together and installed. Made no difference.

Though I may have found something. The Nexas reader I got (specific to Landrover and Jags) has a feature to test battery - the reader is saying I have 11.6V and saying it is a bad battery. But it is brand new and I have a battery tester and the tester says it is 12.8V standalone and then under charge 10.2V (which is the signs of a 100% perfect battery). Though I have a spare battery so I added it with jumper cables (so now have 2 batteries) and did the test and got the same results - reader says bad battery.

So I'm thinking I might have a bad negative cable connection. Does this sound right? Where does the negative cable run to? Thanks

 

I did some voltage drop tests on the battery and cables and all looked good - so I charged the battery for 15 mins and then did the reading inside again with the reader - now it said battery is GOOD but still have the same faults. So unfortunately I don't think the battery or cables are the issue.

I then ran codes from the Nexas reader on all the systems and got lots of error codes (see below) - any ideas from these codes - could one be the reason for the HDC fault?

- P1500 speed sensor intermittent
- P01B8 (no description but part of park brake reading)
- P0100 mass or volume air flow circuit (part of park brake reading)
- B0720 - no description
- P012E - no description but from ride control reading
- B0600 - no description but from ride control reading
- B1427 - front right seat climiate control blower motor power (from all terrain control module reading)
- B1400 - drivers door window glass one touch relay circuit short to battery (from all terrain control module reading)
- P0368 camshaft position sensor B circuit high bank 1
- P0028 - control valve control solenoid
- P0068 - manifold absolute pressure mass air flow
- P006C - no description
- C0301 - no description (part of park brake reading)

So I have tons of codes? I suspect not everything is wrong but one or two things are bad and messing up all the others??? BTW - I did erase the codes but made no difference - I still have the HDC fault message with truck stuck in low gear and Special Features not available.

Any ideas???? Thanks

 

so its getting worse. I removed my brake switch (under steering) and opened it up to see if there was signs of black dust or burnt stuff. It looked good so I put it back and now I have the red brake light on, engine light on, transmission says gears limited, etc, etc. I think I may have buggered up the switch - I do have a new one coming in a week or so but can someone confirm if the brake switch can be reused once removed. Also if I am doing it right. Here is what I did:

- I turned it 1/4 turn clockwise and it came out with the plunger out and the swing tabs in line with the shape to slide it back in. To put back in, I had the plunger out (with the tabs aligned) slide it in and turned 1/4" counterclockwise - it seems to be secured so I plugged in the wires - did I do something wrong????? The instructions say that when you buy a new one the plunger is not sticking out but instead inside - this makes no sense as when the plunger is inside the tabs are not aligned and thus I can't push the switch into the hole to turn since the tabs are not aligned and prevent/stop the switch from being pushed all the way in - again did I do something wrong????

- a dumb question, but can someone confirm how the switch sits when properly attached - maybe can someone take a picture of their switch installed??? Or confirm that the circled section is on the right and the plug on the left? I removed mine without really looking enough - I'm sure I'm installing it right since there really is only 1 way (the slide section has a bump around one side, so you really can't install it backwards???)

- until my new switch arrives, is there any way to test or temp repair mine? I even have my original switch from a few years ago when I first replaced it - I took my original switch and opened it up, cleaned up all the contacts, put it back together and tried it - getting the same results - so either both brake switches are buggered up or somehow I messed it up even more?????

Note I also removed my rear wheel and caliber and confirmed the pads are fine - still have 3mm if not more - but I did screw up a little - with the caliber off is when I was screwing with the brake switch and I forgot the caliber was off so a few times I did hit the brake pedal after reinstalling the switch - this obviously caused the caliber piston to go in - but I did check the fluid reserviour and I never did go below the min, and with my caliber spreader I was easily able to get it back into the base position and reinstall the brakes. Though as mentioned I now have red BRAKE light, abs light, engine light, transmission light, and my original hdc and low gear issues - did I mess up or does it sound like it is the brake switch that I messed up??????

Thanks

 

OK, I have an update - it is back to normal?????? I was fiddle more with my Nexas reader and basically went again into every mode and erased every code again - I then started to fiddle like crazy with the ride height switch and low/high switch and all of a sudden the DSC light went off, the brake light went off, the hdc fault gone, etc. I now only have the park brake error which is fine cause that has been out of service for 4+ years (I think the module is bad cause it makes no noise when you push the switch - and yes I bought a new switch and it made no difference). I took it for a ride, and I can again select Special Programs, ride height works, I can again switch between low and high gears - basically everything works!!!!!!

With the Nexas, I was ever able to erase my airbag light (that has been on forever) and reset the service/oil counter. Not bad for a reader that cost $100 CDN delivered.

 

what Nexas reader do you have specifically? I have the exact same problem with my 2008 Land Rover LR3 SE. Can you tell me the name of the reader and the model number please?