BTW, the Johnson Rods will be going away in the not-to-distant future. I've ordered a LLAMS controller now that the exchange rate is nicely in our favor.

 

The guys at GAP got back to me and basically said 'yeah....your calibration is way off'. Unfortunately I did not get a chance to re-do it this afternoon as I got caught up in other stuff. But I'll find time this weekend to re-calibrate. I'm planning to take it to the local library's parking lot for the job as it's flatter than my driveway. With any luck this will resolve the cross axle error, then I can re-install the spacers and see what happens next.

 

LET'S MAKE A DEAL...

I've got a new (You can tell it's new because it's clean) front EAS valve block. Also a new Hitachi compressor (It's also clean).

Free shipping since I ship from office...

 

I'm afraid I don't have much need of the parts at the moment, but I may well end up selling some parts eventually. I just don't know when, so it's to early to make any real plans on that front.

 

Made some progress today. Got the calibration sorted and did maybe 15 miles with no cross axle errors. The wife has me booked up all day tomorrow but I might be able to start re-installing the mods Monday.

 

Good to hear!

 

Time for a follow-up

After getting the calibrations dialed in, I was able to start re-installing the mods one at a time.

First I put the Johnson Rods back on and did a test drive. No problems. I was able to hit all three heights as well.

Next I re-installed the Proud Rhino spacer kit in the rear only and again, no problems. Still able to go to all three heights.

Since I'm running my rear limit straps differently than recommended* by Lucky8 they went on next - still no problems getting to all three heights. So far, so good.

*the recommended mounting spot for the rear straps was the upper control arm alignment bolt. But this causes excess rubbing between the strap and the wheel, even when I had on 3/4" spacers - not really feesable. So instead I'm running them to the upper bolt of the swaybar end link.

Next I installed the front spacers. Ah-ha - now I can't go into access mode without triggering a false error and making the truck jump back up to extended mode. I'm not exactly sure what the issue is as the truck will physically drop lower before hitting the bump stops if I use the GAP tool to dump the air, so my guess is it's just lowering too slowly for the last few mm which makes the computer think there is an obstruction and thus the extended mode.

Given that I normally only use access when I'm loading stuff on the roof rack, and that I've got a LLAMS tool on order anyway, I'm not going to pursue this any further. It seems to be working OK other than this, though I haven't been off-road with it yet.

 

Man I'd like to see your setup in-person. Limiting straps? What is the advantage of those?

 

The limit straps are part of the Proud Rhino kit. With the addition of a 2" spacer on the top of the strut you could possibly over-extend the down-travel, particularly in the rear as I understand, and kill the CVs. The limit straps are to make sure you don't get too much down travel if you pick up a wheel. And LR3s are good at picking up a wheel.

I don't know that my rig is all that much to look at, but it does have a few mods and I do use it. If you find yourself in California you're welcome to have a look. (I'm guessing you're in WA from the name)

 

Yep...about 20 miles north of Seattle.

I mean I know what a limiting strap does. I understood that the inards of the air shocks limit travel...which explains why as they wear out, the upper control arms begin to strike the aluminum canister (at least in front). With your spacers it makes sense why the kit would include a separate strap.

You think the LR3s are good at picking up a wheel??? Try wheelin' a H2 or H3. Or...any other stock 4x4 not a Wrangler! We get 13" of wheel travel in the back...that's pretty decent, no?