I’m currently replacing all control arms, bushings, stabilizers etc. I’ve searched and only found a few posts where members have both Johnson Rods and the IID Tool. Hopefully I can get some specific information on one thread here (or if my google powers suck, please link what I’m missing).



The IID Tool can raise and lower the height outside of the factory settings, which I have seen in various different posts. My question is, with the combination of the Johnson 2.5 rods, can you achieve a higher lift? My assumption is the lift sensors have a limit on what they can read. What is the specific max lift limit on the IID tool (or mechanical measurement – point to point) that will prevent damaging of any components? If possibly can you clarify this limit with or without the 2.5” rods. What is the specific lowest driveable limit (with and without) the tool. Same as with height, what is the limit with or without the 2.5” rods.


Now taking the Johnson Rods out of the equation. Can you reprogram the factory ride heights, in which you do not need to continually plug in the IID tool to set? Or does it go back to stock height once unplugged. I ask as this as if it goes back to the original value, then the Johnson Rods would fulfill this need if I cannot do this.


As I am replacing all suspension components, before I tighten down each component to prevent binding, can someone provide the measurements point to point. IE Control arm is 4.5” from XYZ – component. If you can provide what that would be stock and assuming the new ride height would change that by a factor of 2.5” Was thinking I'd find this on the Johnson Rods site, but all I found is the increased ride height.



My goal is to have the normal ride height increased by 2.5”. Ideally I don’t want to have to plug in the IID Tool each morning to set it. If I can set that as a factory default, I may pass on the Johnson Rods – pending if I can go even higher with the lift. For the minimum, I have to occasionally drive into parking garages for work and sometimes these are very low. I plan to use the multiple settings on the IID Tool to achieve this as needed.



Hope my questions are clear in getting the correct answers. Much appreciated to the contributions.

 

You can set and save a different ride height with the GAP tool as your standard setting no problem.

I would not run the lift rods and then program in additional lift

 

Im not a fan of life rods, mainly based on what I have read. Look good on paper, but its seems if they push the sensors past their design limits the EAS can fault and fail. Like if you drop to your stops for some reason, it may not even what to lift back up with eh rods installed. GAP/Software calibration seems best. Keep in mind any drastic needs an alignment anyway.

For measurements, I believe these are correct for stock heights:

Factory: Arch bottom lip to wheel center heights:
466mm for the front (center of wheel to bottom of wheel arch) and 485mm for the rear.

 

Great, good to know. When you do program this can you set the heights for the switch on the center console? IE, toggle to offroad, = this height, toggle down = this height. I will still keep the IID tool to overide the speed limit.


Thanks for the info, I really appreciated it. Do you know if anyone has produced a sensor with a wider range? It seems this is limiting factor and not the mechanical, possibly getting more lifts? Can you also help with what is the highest setting on the IID tool you can run without damaging the sensors? What is the total lift gained over stock? Trying to get a good gauge before I start tire shopping and sourcing other components with the tape measure.

After all the new the new equipment, tie rods included, alignment shop is the first spot I will be heading. I plan to get the unlimited alignment membership as Ill be changing tires and heights as well.

 

limiting factor is how severe of an angle can your CV joints handle before coming dislocated.

 

There is a fix for that HD CVs are out in the wild already

 

The sensors themselves have the full range as the suspension. From stop to full extended. So the sensors are not the issue, the issues is the rods push the sensors past their limits and I dont think anyone will develop sensors with greater articulation because is so simple to simply recalibrate them with a GAP tool or such.

 

Ok as I am a laymen, could you explain the process of using my GAP tool in lieu of my rods all together. I have the rods on now. So remove, and re calibrate system to standard stock height then raise the whole vehicle with only the gap tool the 50+mm? Is this right?

 

I am not sure I recall correctly, but I think that rods on or rods off your calibration does not change. Just take those things off and put them in a shoebox (more on that later) and put the stock rods back on. Then, plug in your GAP tool and see what your current calibration is. You can go up to 255 I think....so let's say your largest value in any corner is 240, you could in theory raise each corner by 15 units, then save that setting as "myset.1" or "myset.2" or whatever....there are three possible plus "original."

I like to leave a little leeway so that I never get into an "out of range" situation when off-road. So instead of going all the way to the 255 limit, maybe go to 250. In the above scenario that would mean adding 10 units to each corner and saving.

The shoebox: I always take spare rods with me off-roading in case my GAP won't connect via BT or my steering wheel buttons are acting wonky. It's a good back-up so don't toss them in the trash.

 

Oh? Control arms are already out. Might want these.. Do you know if anyone makes a thicker stock lift rod, like the johnson rods but without the lift? They seem very cheap and easily break able. Maybe thats intended as to not break the mores expensive sensors.

Good to know. Thank you.

Thanks for those numbers. Plan to get the final shopping cart together with my notes when I dive into lift heights.