I wanted to know what maintance you guys would recommend. The LR3 has 84000 on it. Anything I should keep an eye on or look for?

According to the Carfax this was all done at 77000

Maintenance inspection completed
Recommended maintenance performed
Four wheel alignment performed
Throttle body cleaned/serviced
Brake fluid flushed/changed
Inspection completed
Console/lid adjusted
Coolent system flushed
Nitrogen fill tires
Exterior lights checked
Brakes checked
Tie rod end(s) replaced
Alignment checked
Ride height system repaired/adjusted
State emissions inspection completed
State inspection completed
Interior trim checked
Steering/suspension checked
Pinion seals replaced

Thanks Branden

 

make sure you keep an eye on having money in your account for repairs

 

Thanks
I have a sick feeling in my gut after reading.

 

Just be proactive and it won't be bad.Enjoy it.

 

You'll want to replace fluids under the truck. Front differential is $2200 to replace, holds 22 ounces of fluid. Rover maintenance schedule was highly optimistic, aimed at leased vehicles, pushing major repairs to guys like... you. Don't wait until 150,000 to do fluids. Here is factory maint schedule. Do sooner, not later.

 

That is what I have been reading about keeping up on the fluids thanks guys.

 

Hello all I am considering purchasing a LR3 06/07 I just read that savanh buzz said 2200. to change the front dif? I am a member of another forum for a dif car I own and have always liked dooing my own work.
Please tell me that this 2200. price can be averted and I can do this my self?
thanks, any advice for a potential new owner ? what to look out for questions to ask etc?
Townsend-

 

Yes. But know this, if you service it and don't tighten the plug, it can fall out like one guy had in a drive across Montanna. Not good. The point is that maintenance schedules are part of the promotion of a vehicle by "ad men". So if you have lower cost-of-ownership, etc., that is good for business. Many of these plans are based on the leased vehicles, so the cost to the original person is lower, and the real repairs get pushed to the next guy (or gal). By operating the vehicle without changing the fluid, you are asking a set of gears to go 150,000 miles with 1/3 the fluid capacity of a D1, with a vehicle that has much more horse power and weighs 1300 pounds more. It is splash lubrication. It has a breather tube. The breather will allow oil fumes to escape into the atmosphere (don't tell the EPA). So the oil is in effect sitting inside a metal container with the lid open. And heated and stirred from time to time. Is that oil going to be as good at 10 years as it was the day Thelma Throckmorten, that hot babe on the assemby line, poured it in? You can also get water condensation inside the case. Water and oil, water goes to the bottom, gets stirred up, etc.

So I'll make the case that every LR3 owner would save money in the long run by changing fluids at a schedule reduced from what Rover ad men decided. The units will last past the original warranty, but could do a lot better. Some D1 owners do it once a year, others may vary that if they have done a lot of wading.

For the bean counterz, a quart of synthetic gear lube is $17. So for that $2200 figure, you could change the fluid 129 times if you did it yourself, and did not buy in quantity.

I noted in one of the Rover shop manuals a mention that in certain conditions engine oil had to be changed daily. Now that is arduous.

 

Thanks so much for clearing that up. I can search this forum for the information but I am curious if your group has put together a list of things to look for before purchasing a used ( previously loved) LR3. I am just nuts about this truck ever sine I really took the time to drive one and read about them. I really want to make the right ourchase and I am worried I may purchase an abomination. Are there recalls? I should ask about? I read about a pulley that needs to be changed? I look forward to any and all help.
Also of topic do you folks have an owner group here in the North East?
Townsend

 

Biggest problem that these trucks faced were water leaks. Look for signs of the a-pillars and front of the headliner being water stained. Push down on the passenger's front carpet, make sure it's dry.
Yes, they have their share of issues, but most of it is the type of problems that are either there or they aren't, the air suspension compressor and control arms will need replacement at some point, but if they're good now, then you're fine for a little while.
When test driving, make sure you try out all of the features, air suspension, parking brake, nav and bluetooth if fitted, remotes, t-case high and low range.