Hello All!
I just pulled the trigger on an 06' LR3 SE with 142k miles- After a significant amount of research and the use of a 3rd party inspection, I found a LR3 close to me with excellent service records indicating all regular maintenance was done and at a Land Rover dealer. I am hoping that it will serve me well as a daily driver with light-medium off-roading activities. I am in the process of getting the Johnson Rod replacement and light kit. One thing that was bugging me was the horrible state of the key fob!

I purchased an aftermarket fob and watched the vids on how to move the guts to a new case. It was a REAL PAIN IN THE ***! During this gory activity, i damaged the circuitry and it does not work anymore. I have the cut key, just need to get a new circuit board and programming. My question is:

• Has anybody damaged the circuits?
• Has anyone used aftermarket vendors to replace the board?
  • If so, what company/vendor did you use?
• How would i go about reprogramming the circuits?

Please let me know!
James

 

I would contact Abran here on the forum he offers reasonably priced rebuilt keys

 

I was in almost your same exact boat 06 SE and they key looked like a german Shepard had gotten to it. First off yes contact Abran see what he has. If not then there is 2 roads you can go. First the dealer which is going to be expensive. I needed the key ASAP so I coughed up the 700 *yikes* for a new key and programming from them. The other option is purchase a Gap IID tool and then you can get keys/fobs online and use the tool to program them yourself. However I have yet to find a 3rd party shop that can cut a key that works. Its laser cut so they can charge 700 but at the same time hold a monopoly on new keys. Personally I would take the second route the IID tool will save your butt more times than you can count. I know it has for me especially with a over 10 year old rover. Mines great and has been very reliable but again they're Rovers. If I had my IID tool when I splashed water on my gear shifter I could of cleared the codes and went on. Instead it cost 1200 at the dealer because they refused to just clear the codes. They had to sell me something lol.

 

Memphis-
Thanks for your response! I was looking at the IID tool as well, Perhaps I will move that to the top of the acquisition list.
Fortunately, I have the original key so no laser cutting needed- Just reprogramming :-)
I will also reach out to Abran and see what he has to say-
Thanks All,
James

 

There are some aftermarket circuits that are sold on eBay that sometimes work but it’s hit or miss. If they do work they do not have a charging circuitry so the batteries end up dying after a year or so.

The key blade can be cut by a machine called a sidewinder. It’s a basic 2 headed machine that traces the old while cutting the new.

If the remote you have will no longer start the vehicle you will need to order a brand new dealer key and have them code or use the GAP tool to code.

Refurbished or aftermarket remotes can only be coded if an existing remote with functional immobilizer chip is present.

 

Thank you Abran,
Fortunately, I have the extra key that functions with the vehicle, however, the lock function of the remote is broken the unlock button works. So It is coded to the vehicle.
Also, I still have the physical key component so no need for any laser cutting.
So I if i have one working key (albeit limited) an aftermarket key could be programmed using it?
Any clarification would be great!

I will mostly likely get the IID Tool for error issues as I have read a lot about them and the cost for repair. Now with that the question is the iLAND unit or IID Tool.
Thanks!
James

 

If you have a key that starts the car, an aftermarket(if it works) or a refurbished remote will code with the GAP tool

 

Hey, if you get the IIDTool you won't need the Johnson Rods. Is it too late to cancel that order? You can save a few $$ that way.