I have a 2nd set of keys.. It works to drive the car, but not lock/unlock it.. before i spend and attempt to replace the batteries, is there anything else that needs to be checked? could it just need to be programmed? i have the Autel AP200 and apparently it can program keys... just dont want to lose the use of my working keys if i try to program this... I took it apart to test the 3V battery, my meter says its only at 2.92v...

 

I would think 2.9v is enough to work the remote function of the key, so I doubt that would be the cause. I'd attempt the programming with the Autel. I had that until a good deal came around for a Gap tool and thought highly of it, value-wise. The downside was the ease of use, for things like this and say calibrating the suspension. I think the risk would be to the second key rather than your "original" one. Worst case you could always attempt to reprogram. It shouldn't remove the original from the truck's memory. The $25 blanks on Amazon work, so you could get one of those in and add it to the key parade as well. A decent locksmith can cut the blade, because I found that the blade was just slightly different and wouldn't swap between the fobs.

 

I went on it a little this morning.. Autel recognizes key enabled.. i will do a re-learn of the key and hopefully it would work.. more to follow. still thinking about the gap tool.. The autel appears to be a pretty easy to figure out.. and one that does not break the bank..

 

^^^
Agreed. What it doesn't do, and what I really wanted, was to be able to muck with the suspension settings with the press of a button. I'm pretty sure you could get it to have a perma-lift by lying to it when you do the suspension calibration, but I wanted some more flexibility. It surprised me with it's ability to decode the various ECUs and return the proprietary LR codes.

My IID was "cheap" in comparison to new and seemed to be the better all-around tool. It is, but for $50 you can do 92% of what the IID tool does, just without some of the "polish."

 

one thing im sure that it can do... it can disable and delete keys! Arrgh! luckily i still have one working key that will start the car... off to the stealership tomorrow morning FML....

 

Before you run to the dealer, the keys starting sow they are programmed. Do you have any issues with your tire pressure sensors being read? Also check the passenger side carpet and see if it is wet. Fuse 43 supplies power to the TPMS and to the RF receiver in the headliner (right behind your head when driving). I would check that fuse and pull the right side rocker sill. IF there is moisture down there it can corrode the splice of the green and white wire.

 

Hugh166 is correct. if you have at least one key working (key fob to unlock/lock doors) then the receiver is getting power, otherwise check the floor in the passenger side as Hugh166 suggests. When I have reprogramed keys for my car, the procedure had me reprogram all my keys at once, even the keys that currently worked. BTW a good lock smith will have the ability to add keys to your vehicle as well as cut new key blades.

 

No wet floors... No TPMS.... keyless was working on one fob and when i went to do a re-learn of the key im having issues with, it disabled the working key...

 

sorry you’re having issues. One thing to consider is to purchase the gap tool rather than spend the money at the dealer. If you’re planning on dumping that cash at the dealer you may as well apply it to the tool you’re going to want anyway. With one working key you should be able to program ( though this should be true with the autel as well). You can also open a ticket with autel. I think I did this on another issue and was pleasantly surprised with the response. Clearly it should be possible to program with that tool. You have one working key so it shouldn’t be “urgent” if you take care not to lose it. Good luck.

 

unfortunately im going on a mini trip so dropped it off at the dealer this morning.. luckily its just a few blocks from my work.. just waiting for the call and the bill..