Had water intrusion due to clogged sunroof drains. Have fixed them. Key fob sending RF signal. Doesn't look like the RF receiver got wet. How do you guys get the plastic below the threshold out of the way to check wiring in door will? Any fuses or anything else to check?

Thanks

DW.

 

I have an LR2 that has had water intrusion. I wonder if it could be the sunroof drain. Are they easy to clean? I don't get water inside in the back (usually on top of the cargo cover) except when it's raining sideways.

 

The door sills pop up and out. You have to be careful not to lose the little metal clips. A body clip tool does make it a lot easier. I think there are 5 or 6 clips on the front, and 3-4 on the passenger. It is one piece. Remove the B pillar top plastic cover, it snaps out, four clips. Then unsnap the B pillar bottom toward away from the B pillar 2 clips.

After you have it lifted out, there are several white clips, which unsnap, and you will be able to inspect the wiring.

Move the seat forward and after you release it, it will be easier to lift out.

The plastic sill will lift out and the metal clips will stay in the wiring cover. Carefully hook a fingernail on each of of the metal clip, squeeze and lift it out. If you don't they will drop into the wiring loom case. It can fish them out, but it's a pain.

I'm not sure on the LR2-- it may be plugged at the drain exit, or plugged at the top where the sunroof is, carefully inspect it. On the LR3 I also noticed, the hose can have a kink it in where it runs behind the glove box... If you can find the drain exit, you might be able to use a blow gun to blow a little are and maybe see if it is draining or not with a cup of water...

 

The link below on the Australia site has some good pictures of what to look for under the door sills - squeeze connectors carrying door lock signals or not.

Also see if your door lock buttons in the rear are illuminated. There are some thin red wires down there spiced in the same manner - the squeeze connectors - that corrode and do not conduct. Sometimes the connectors just fall off in your hand; at other times, they seem OK but just donot conduct as one cannot see the internal corrosion.

As to which side, check both sides - for us with LHD vehicles, the passenger side seems to be where the trouble is most often found however ....

D3 Remote Locking Failure Repair - Australian Land Rover Owners

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...2_to_226~0.pdf

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Remote Locking from KeyFob not working (Again)

 

I repaired the wires under passenger door sill a while ago. Needed to be done as it was corroded due to water ingress. After fixing that the FOB still worked intermittently. So i took it apart based on other threads saying the solder may have failed. All connections on circuitboars are solid and the remote works perfectly when its not in the housing. so i put it back together and it continues to olnly work intermittently. Baffling.

 

I think you have almost resolved the problem.

It sounds like the key fob works OK as long as you are pressing directly on the buttons but when the circuit board and buttons are "wrapped" in the rubber cover, that is when the intermittent condition reappears. I think that when all wrapped up, the battery is getting moved when the button is pushed thru the rubber and that the battery tab solder connection has a hidden crack.

I therefore suggest you remelt/resolder the battery solder connections even if they look good. It is the solder connections related to the battery tabs that generally fail.

The Printed Circuit Board solder connections are usually all OK. It seems that the last step, attaching the battery is done by hand rather than by automatic machine and that is why there are a batch of weak fobs out there with solder connections less than perfect.

The welds of course do last for a few years but eventually crack and I think that is the problem with your key fob.

 

Thank you all for the replies. Been traveling for work so am hoping to tear into this weekend and will let folks know what I find.

DW

 

I think thats the issue. Ive found that when it decides not to work I can tap the FOB on my hand I can get it to work every time. . It seems ill have to unsolder the battery tabs at board to remove to access the underside of battery. At that point ill probably just replace with a new battery.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/VL-2330%2FHFN/P085-ND/32334

Thanks.

 

A replacement battery is probably your best option as it is most likely fully charged but you might first try just heating up the existing battery solder tabs and melt some new solder in to fill the presumed crack in the existing solder.

If you do that, assume the old battery is not fully charged so it may take a week or so of being in the ignition to get it charged up. The charging system is like on those electric tooth brushes - wireless - some sort of field effect charging; power does not flow thru metal contacts within the key hole of whatever.

Probably ordering a new battery and soldering it in is the best procedure.

I gather LR has decided the old style replaceable battery setup was the least worst of the alternatives as on the early 4's, they changed to replacement battery arrangement like the rest of the worlds vehicle manufacturers. I think on the keyless systems, there is also a replaceable battery.

I still think Land Rover is used by Ford as their test tryout manufacturer for possible future systems on their yet to be produced vehicles. As usual the rechargeable battery idea was good but it could not surmount the realities of the manufacturing line and the human element.

Note the aluminum going into the Ford pickups now; the PWM control of the vehicle charging system and the general sheet metal of the new Ford vehicles looking like earlier LR and RR vehicles.

Even that at the time, unique exhaust system Y setup at the rear is now on all the newer Ford cars.

 

Yep i have one if the 2005 ford/rovers. Definately a "practice run". But its still a great truck overall.