I have to agree and that is why I still have my 2005 LR3.

As a matter of routine, I replace the weak stuff so my view is that with 150,000 plus miles now on it, my 3 is more reliable than when it came from the factory.

 

Same here. 130,000. All the standard fixes. Compressor. A arms. Etc.

 

After getting the drain tubes fixed a couple weeks ago I finally had time with all the rain here in Colorado to spend some time on the keyless entry. Pulled the wire loom apart on the passenger front floor to find the green wire with white stripe. Took a little digging as mine were in the bottom half of the loom. But the weren't to hard to identify since as soon as I touch them they came apart. Mine were inside a section of blue tape but had no black connector just a little corroded crimp connection that had disintegrated in green copper oxide. Spliced and soldered in a new section taped and it is good to go. My black and red wires that power the rear window switch lights? were ok.

I want to extend my thanks to all who post to this forum. It has been invaluable. Hope I can return the favor.

DW.

 

My carpet padding under the passenger front foot well was soaked under the carpet. Been apart two weeks already. How do you ever get it dry?

 

I pulled the plastic door sills and lifted the carpet and pad. First i put towel afer towel and pressed out as much moisture as possible. Then with multiple blocks under to allow max airflow i ran a fan under the carpet for a long time on multiple occasions.

 

Got the LR3 out in the rain today and the pad under the front passenger carpet on a U.S. Spec unit is soaked again. Pulled the intake grill on right fender and the drain tube rubber is stick thru and looks ok. Wondering if the hose is disconnected or partially so. I poured water in hose from topside and drained to ground. What is the best way to get to the interior side of this lower connection?

Thanks

DW.

 

The link below contains a number of files related to the two HVAC drains that collect rainwater that has come in thru the cowl vent or condensation water from the operation of the air conditioner.

This is why you can end up with soaking wet carpet on one or both sides of the transmission tunnel in the middle of the desert.

Per the link information, the fix is easy, (reattach the drains), and to dry the carpet, set a bedroom fan to blowing on the carpet for about a week or two.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Heater Air Conditioner System

 

Thanks for that detail.

Replaced windscreen cowl. Pretty easy job. A pillars fixing kit next but Atlantic British is out of stock until the end of the week.

On a possibly related note? Has anyone had trouble with the window switch circuits due to water intrusion? Noticed that both rear door windows will go down when controlled from either their own door switch or the drivers door switch but the drivers door switch will not roll them up? Have to use individual door switches to get them up. New (old rule) instated for kids which is don't roll down the windows! They replied to this "wow it's just like Black Betty (our old disco I)! Follow by my wife saying "I thought you moved up to an LR3 to get away from the Lucas Gremlins?"

Thanks guys.

DW

 

Do not forget the cowl ingress method, where the water makes clean entry through the cabin air filter.. Check your cowl for warping..

 

I think the Prince of Darkness was slain by some dragon type from the far east; a much more devious sort it seems. I am not certain your wife will accept that thinking however you might try.

In your case, the solution might just be to replace the drivers door switch; that you might be able to get from a junk yard. Before I did that however, I would just shoot WD-40 or better yet, electrical contact cleaner into the switch without removing it. I have fixed switches that way in the past and I do not think contact cleaner will do any harm.

The good news is that right now, you know the window motors do work.