My 2006 Land Rover LR3 front suspension drops rather rapidly and causes a suspension fault after driving about 10 minutes (code reads something like too many adjustments inputs). What I have done:
- Changed front valve block (no change - still drops)
- Changed front left air bag (it had a small hole - no change - still drops but a little slower)
- No visible leaks at the new valve block or right side air bag (sprayed with soapy water)
Upon pulling the two fuses for the suspension the front still drops equally left and right (probably an inch every couple of minutes)
Rear suspension stays up with fuses out

Any suggestions?
I was about to replace the right air bag as well but given it still drops equally (left and right) I am not sure that will fix it.

My thoughts are:
- Bad new front valve block?
- Leak in air hose(s) I can't see?
- Issue with reservoir valve block?
- Leak in one or both air bags, including the new one just installed

Help greatly appreciated before I give up replacing parts and take it to the shop and get [potentially] gouged.

 

Not sure; need codes. Sounds like an algorithm based failure and most likely you'll want to change your drier. Hard to diagnose without the exact code though. Do you know if you have the Hitachi or the AMK?

 

If both front struts are dropping, it points to an issue with the front valve block since that controls their air movement. I forget the code, but the DTC corresponding to “Too much movement in the up direction” message has a couple causes, but the main one is a faulty front valve block.

I had this exact issue once and it occurred after I rebuilt my front valve. I had pinched one of the o-rings between the two halves of the valve block and it would leak air slowly enough the compressor could inflate the bags but it would hit bump stops quickly after turning the engine off.

 

Thanks. I ordered another new valve block and see if that fixes my problem.

 

This is one of those issues were the cheap imported valves cause more problems than they solve.
The import valve that was put on by the dealer we bought the 2008 from was different than an OEM version and did not have the the same type of O-rings. Since I had the kit, I just found a used valve on line and replaced the O-rings and all is good.
Well not all is good. It has an AMK compressor but the car says it is a Hitachi, So I guess I will spend an hour or so, flashing the ECU this next weekend.


Glad you got you got it sorted out.

Jeff

 

I replaced with a different new non-OEM valve block. All is good. Looks like the first new one I bought was bad. Costed me about $300 in other parts and an additional 5 hours of work for items I didn't need if I had known at first it was a bad new valve block.
First valve block was bought on Amazon with a one tear warranty, we'll see if they honor that.

 

I think OEM valve blocks are only $150....

 

Yea, the Chinese Amazon valve block was about a 1/3 the cost of OEM, but I should have gone OEM given the value of my time having to replace this thing twice and who knows how long the current one will last.

 

Ok, still no drop and replaced the reservoir block.

recalibrated the suspension, again, front didn’t raise so just ran through the process as it was close to the height recommended.

placed the car in off-road and it rose, again with the message front raises slowly but no issues with the back.

I need to do a bit more diagnose on the live levels but the compressor was running at 230F.

It hasn’t thrown any other warnings right now, but I’ll do a bit more research. I’m now edging towards a leak somewhere that’s causing the front to slowly raise.

 

If you just replaced suspension parts then started the truck and commanded a raise, it will go slow. "Raising slowly" is truck talk for "raising off the compressor only". The front is usually the victim on that because the truck raises the rear first. This is because the reservoir is depleted. You have to start the truck and let the compressor run a cycle to refill the reservoir. This should be done before calibration also since the compressor is usually not run during calibration so you need reservoir air to lift.