Last hope
I’ll try to make this short.
Recent work/replaced:
air compressor
crank position sensor
MAF sensor
cleaned throttle body
transfer control module or whatever - behind the battery w 3 conections
air to coil conversion w “blocker box” for red dash light (Dunlop brand system)
bought IIDTool
the day after we got it back after having the coil springs installed the transmission started messing up. Driving around town would just rev up but not go. Randomly when taking off from a stop it will do it too. It would still ding and show suspefault max speed 30 thing but no amber or red (bottom left) dash light. Now red dash light
i have just dumped tooooooo much $$ into this and idk what To do besides give up
2006 LR3 w 200K
NY THOUGHTS?
Recent work/replaced:
air compressor
crank position sensor
MAF sensor
cleaned throttle body
transfer control module or whatever - behind the battery w 3 conections
air to coil conversion w “blocker box” for red dash light (Dunlop brand system)
bought IIDTool
the day after we got it back after having the coil springs installed the transmission started messing up. Driving around town would just rev up but not go. Randomly when taking off from a stop it will do it too. It would still ding and show suspefault max speed 30 thing but no amber or red (bottom left) dash light. Now red dash light
i have just dumped tooooooo much $$ into this and idk what To do besides give up
2006 LR3 w 200K
NY THOUGHTS?
2nd for check and fill the transmission. Betting the shop didn't go through the proper procedure.
Tell tale way is warm up the transmission, put it in R and D then back to park, pull the drain plug. If nothing comes out it needs fluid. Fill until it starts coming back out and wait for it to slow to a drip. That is full, put the plug back in
Tell tale way is warm up the transmission, put it in R and D then back to park, pull the drain plug. If nothing comes out it needs fluid. Fill until it starts coming back out and wait for it to slow to a drip. That is full, put the plug back in
Just tossing this out there. The transmission capacitor (LR020488) - I know they generally fail outright two ways, either the capacitor detonates into a smoke cloud or the fuse goes. But this evil thing has a direct impact on shifting. Can they fail in an intermittent way?
I'd use the GAP tool you bought and read the codes it may be storing. Just be aware on the first read may have many many codes that were logged over time. Somewhere in the menu you can kill these old codes off and then re-read what is current. If you replaced the transfer case module you should clear the transmission adaptations which you can also do with the GAP tool. Transmission... look at the transmission pan and cross member below it. If it's damp/dripping with trans fluid, you'll need to at least top it off to see if it operates normally again. Better yet, get the trans filter and fluid changed ASAP. Don't try to drive it if you suspect the fluid is low enough it won't move normally.
I have no experience with the coil conversions... but you say the red dash light is on even with the "blocker box" that is supposed to defeat it is installed? Sound like a software glitch or the ride height sensors are still active... ???
I have no experience with the coil conversions... but you say the red dash light is on even with the "blocker box" that is supposed to defeat it is installed? Sound like a software glitch or the ride height sensors are still active... ???
I have cleared the codes and preformed a refresh of the trans ECM with program provided by GAP negative results on that
the trick as been trying to find someone who can work on or knows anything about these in our area.
the trick as been trying to find someone who can work on or knows anything about these in our area.
You have what sounds like 3 separate issues.
- no start, not sure where to point you
- suspension fault- the blocker box is not doing it’s job.
- transmission- first step is check fluid as mentioned, that’s the obvious one. Second would be, get a mechanic! Jk. If fluid level is good, how are the tires? All equal size? Were they recently rotated? If so rotate them back, just to see.
GAP is not just a tool, it’s a diagnostic resource. Send them an email with codes and issues and they will walk you through the steps the track it down. Seems a little laborious as you can’t call them, but they respond quickly.
lastly, where are you located?
- no start, not sure where to point you
- suspension fault- the blocker box is not doing it’s job.
- transmission- first step is check fluid as mentioned, that’s the obvious one. Second would be, get a mechanic! Jk. If fluid level is good, how are the tires? All equal size? Were they recently rotated? If so rotate them back, just to see.
GAP is not just a tool, it’s a diagnostic resource. Send them an email with codes and issues and they will walk you through the steps the track it down. Seems a little laborious as you can’t call them, but they respond quickly.
lastly, where are you located?


