Just finished my engine mount adapter loosely modeled off of the one used by enb54... Used Ford P/N: F87Z-6031-FA from a Ford Explorer

 

Hi DerChamp, got an email notice that you had posted a question about the motor mount but it is not viewable on this site by me for some reason. Anyway, the mount was from a 2008 Ford Ranger VIN E engine and it looked a lot like the Ford F87Z-6031-FA part number you quoted... Sounds like you are traveling down the Ford SOHC 4.0L V6 path, a really good choice for me!

 

I responded yesterday and still don't see my post so will try again. Yes, that Ford part number F87Z-6031-FA seems to be the same as my original, which came from a 2008 VIN E 4.0L SOHC engine from a 4WD Ford Ranger.

EDIT: OK now I see all the posts, you will have to open up that hole (2nd from the left) so you can use that place to install the 2nd knock sensor. Also, you have to either make or buy a "step stud" that takes you from the 10 x 1.5 threads to the 8 x 1.25 required for the knock sensor. I suppose you could also just try bolting it straight on to the mount without enlarging the hole, I don't know if you really need that sensor directly on the block...
See https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...t-93456/page8/ for my finished version

 

Not sure if posts are still delayed on this thread but just for those who are curious... I have mentioned in a PM to enb54 that we have got the engine installed minus the exhaust, which needs to be bolted up to the manifolds and O2 sensors connected. The engine has compression readings in the high 170 psi range across all cylinders. Using a Snap-on diagnostic tool we are getting readings from crank and cam sensors. Fuel pressure is good BUT when we start the engine it turns over, briefly sputters and then stalls with quite a bit of popping/backfiring sounds. Not sure what this might be... My friend/mechanic who is working on this mostly, has experience with the Ford Ranger application of this engine and assures me that we are in good health mechanically but fears the problem is electrical. Any comments are most welcome and thanks in advance for any advice!

 

Hi DerChamp,
Got your PM and responded last night, we were away relaxing at Chief Mountain on the Canadian side, no phone or cell service. After thinking a bit more about it there are several things that it could be, just running some ideas past you on the forum in case anyone else tries this engine swap. Assuming the position of the reluctor on the flex plate is correct, the camshafts are aligned correctly, the ECU connections are good, then it must be something simple, because it sounds like the ECU thinks the engine and/or sensors are not responding properly. Something simple like the engine oil temperature sensor or the connection to it, maybe one of the knock sensors not connected or defective? The upper O2 sensors must be connected in order to ascertain the correct stoichiometry for the fuel air mixture, not sure if the ECU requires the lower ones to make the engine run. What messages do you get when you connect a scanner to the OBDII port? Any decent OBDII scanner should give you engine faults, but there are some things that are LR3 specific, and you may require something like a GAP IIDTool to get more info. I am not an ace mechanic for these things, but was pretty paranoid about electrical circuit tracing and testing the parts during reassembly

 

This was a fun read, though I don't even have this engine, I learned lots.

 

Hey Greg...
How did that LS swap turn out?

 

So I have replaced the cam and crank sensors to be certain they are not faulty. Scan tool is showing RPM reading from crank sensor but still no start. The vehicle had the battery disconnected for over a month, I have had 2 experienced mechanics look over the vehicle and they are convinced it is an issue with the immobilizer having the battery disconnected for too long or some other electrical issue. We get crank and 1 spark on the first cycle but no further spark. Going to buy the IIDTool. Any other possible silly thing we might have missed? I have not yet found or had a specialized Land Rover tech look over the vehicle as it is still beached at friend's shop.

 

I had the battery disconnected from early June to mid August and it wasn't a problem, there is something else happening if you only get the spark once, the ECU has a PROM that will not allow the engine to start if it sees incorrect parameters from certain sensors, but without any error codes to work with, you're pretty much in the dark. 5280LR3 on this forum had a no start problem because of his engine oil temperature sender being disconnected, but that's the only thing I've heard of when the V6 engine was pulled for repair or replacement, mine started instantly, so I have no useful answer for you at this time. I'll try to see if I have any other documentation...

 

Went pretty well, other than the lacking directions it was really not that bad. I could do one in a few weekends pretty easily now that I know what it takes. Runs great, way more power than stock and better mpg even on 87 pump. No longer does it have to shift on the way up the hill to my house, it easily just motors along in 3rd gear up the hill that the 4.6 had to shift to 2nd on to make it at all. It's really nice. It feels like the motor that SHOULD have come with this vehicle.