Hello Friends!

This is my first technical thread so please bear with me. I know many people have posted similar threads regarding their cooling system, but I couldn't quite find one that described the exact problems as mine, nor explained the same way. Sorry for the long post but I am trying to be as detailed as possible.

Background Information: I have a 2006 LR3 SE that just hit 150,000 miles about a week ago. Radiator and water pump changed about 2 years/20,000 miles ago.

Issue: Lately, my engine temperature gauge has been fluctuating, such that, while driving, at any given time with no "triggers," the needle will go from normal and work its way up to hot. When I pull over, turn the car off and immediately then turn the key to the electrical on position, the temperature is back to normal and same goes when I start it up right after. It will then stay there for any given time again without rising. Once I reach home following the incident, though, I do notice that the coolant level drops and thus, upon cooling, I add coolant to the respective level via the expansion tank. I have been adding coolant (not much) about every two weeks and so I know that there has been a slow leak. Then, the other day, my car overheated with smoke, luckily, around the corner from my house and I was fortunate enough to be able to get it to my driveway. When I popped the hood, it seemed that the coolant in the expansion tank didn't move at all as I checked it prior to leaving the house that day. After letting it cool down, I began to look around for a possible leak. I could not find one, although, coolant had been sprayed all over the engine compartment. I just couldn't find where it was coming from. After reading through threads, I thought perhaps there was an issue with the thermostat, like it was shut closed, since the coolant in the expansion tank didn't move and maybe that's why the car overheated - because whatever was in the engine leaked out and no coolant was flowing back in. So, I watched some videos and opened it up. As soon as I did, however, the thermostat came flinging out and when I looked inside the housing, the bracket that holds it in place (small plastic molding part of the actual housing) broken and I'm assuming it's because it just old, brittle, and crumbly as the other side looked as if it were ready to give way as well. Nothing looked wrong with the thermostat, but now, I can't put it back in place. I still needed to find the leak. When I looked down into the thermostat housing, I noticed the entire area was dry, completely. Next, I poured some water in to the housing. THAT'S when I found the leak. The water was leaking as fast as I was pouring from the left bottom tube of the thermostat housing that points diagonally to the back corner of the engine compartment (passenger side). I used a little mirror to look underneath and saw an actual slit, about 1/2" long and maybe 1/16" in width. Now, at this point, I should say, since you are probably shaking your head at me already or will be soon, that I only have one car and I need it for another two weeks. I ended up putting a shaped piece of rubber that fits in to groove length of the tube, along with some JB Weld on the outside, wrapped with a rubber hose (spliced to fit around the housing tube) and tied with the style of clips that need to screwed to tighten. Then I filled it up via one of the hoses that connects to the bleeder screw above the air intake manifold. It seems to have worked relatively well. Don't get me wrong, water is still dripping, but at the rate of say, water dripping from an IV tube and that's only while the car is running. When it's off, the dripping stops. Bear in mind, I also don't have a thermostat in there as the fitting to hold it in place broke. I decided to take it for a test drive today since the car wasn't overheating in idle and there was finally some coolant back in the system. After about two miles of driving, the temperature gauge began to rise again. I didn't want to take chances like before when it would just drop, so I pulled over. When I opened the hood, things looked fine. I opened the expansion tank it started bubbling for about 5 seconds, stopped, and a minute later, sucked up all the coolant. I brought some coolant with me so filled it back up to the fill line and headed back home. Another mile in, the temperature started to go back up again. Same thing, I slowly opened the expansion tank, bubbles came up for about 5 seconds, and a minute later, all the coolant got sucked down so I filled it back up. After cooling off, since I was less than a mile from home, I went back on the road, and same thing. I was block from the house but didn't want to chance it. So I pulled over on the road. THEN, there was a noise this time. I heard these popping sounds coming from the engine. There were about six to eight popping sounds, though not loud or anything. To me, it sounded like putting a frying pan on the stove while it was still wet and you hear the water droplets start popping, of course, the noise from the car were slightly louder than that. I did the same thing, opened the tank, bubbles came out, coolant dropped, I filled it back up. After getting it come safely, 10 houses away, I opened the expansion tank and same thing - 5 seconds of bubbling followed by a coolant drop, though this time, it didn't have those popping noises. During all these coolant drops, there was no significant leaking that occurred based on visual inspection of the engine compartment. I forgot to also mention, I don't think the heater is blowing out hot air. I tried once when I started the car after filling it up with coolant the first time, though I did not try since the air bubbles got released and more coolant entered the system.

Queries and Comments:
1.) I do not think I "bled/burped" the cooling system prior to driving. Is this what is causing all the bubbles that emerge when I open the expansion tank (total of about 15-20 seconds worth of bubbling) and then the dropping of the coolant level (refilled about one gallon today and not sure on amount that I entered after opening the thermostat housing and finding it empty)? Is it possible that there is this much air in there? Take into consideration, as well, that when I opened and looked down in to the thermostat housing, the entire area was devoid of any signs of liquid.

2.) Was that set of popping noises I heard like air pockets bursting through the water or something?

3.) Also, what are your thoughts on running the car without a thermostat for two weeks? It wouldn't be everyday and would most likely be less than 10 miles total per use.

4.) Are there any other concerns or probable causes to these issues based on the background story?

I know I am probably being judged on my lack of care for the car, especially after hearing my "make-shift" deal with the thermostat housing, but I will say, I did buy a new thermostat with the housing and coolant expansion tank. I just need to wait for it to arrive and have my stepdad who is a mechanic install them, which is in two weeks. Unfortunately, I live on an island with no Land Rover dealership or certified shops. Also, I am going to try and bleed the air out more tomorrow morning once the car has gotten back down to "cold" temperature.

I definitely appreciate any assistance provided!!!

 

Item #1- yes that's air in your system. A section being completely dry is from an airlock.

Bottom line is stop driving the rover. Overhearing can be catastrophic.

Take a cab or Uber for your 10 minute drives for the next 2 weeks. If you say you can't afford it, price out a new motor with install. That most people can't afford.

 

I know from experience: just about $10,000 and a month and a half without the truck. Pales in comparison to a couple hundred and two weeks without it.

You ran your cooling system dry due to a leak and then didn't bleed it properly. There's probably all sorts of air in the system, which is what makes the temperature gauge read funny as pockets of air hit it. Bottom line, stop driving the car. You've probably already done damage to the engine overheating it and adding coolant. Tow it to someone who knows how to bleed the system properly or look up how to do it.

 

x2. My buddy fried his engine and he (sadly) no longer has his LR3. His and mine were friends...now they can't go play in the woods together anymore.

Get a bike, get your coolant system fixed properly.

 

Thank you for the responses. I appreciate it!

 

Find the leak first, bleeding is not hard. Put simply you cycle the engine at a fairly high RPM until coolant reaches the temp where the thermostat opens and dumps coolant into the full loop (all done with expansion tank cap off). Shut engine down after loop opens, let fluid settle to line, top up to fill line and repeat. There are a few threads that repeat this in detail.

You or whoever does it will need an accurate measurement of temperature, the dash guage is NOT useful for this.