Just so interested parties down the road don't get confused with your last image of the engine hanging by a come along... that is the Explorer engine, not the Land Rover engine. It threw me off trying to figure out why the oil filler is on the right side. Also, the thermostat housing is a different setup than what you see above. The thermostat is in the lower hose assembly on the LR3. Not sure why you needed to pull the exhaust manifolds. I just unbolted the exhaust flanges and used the manifolds as a lift points employing QUALITY motorcycle tie downs (Ancra not Harbor Freight). I could change the balance and attack angle easier with the straps vs a single mounting point. No need to remove the motor mounts. Just remove the single mount nut on each side. I did have the valve covers on and intake manifold off when lifting the engine out. Harmonic balancer was removed before the engine was pulled to help clear the radiator which i did not remove. I placed a thin sheet of plywood against the fins of the radiator in case things got out of control. It's tight, but can be done by tipping the front of the engine upward while lifting it out. I installed the balancer before installing the engine, however. FYI... there are "service" locks on the hood so you can open it wide open and lock it into place. No need to remove the hood. Order a new set of front sway bar bushings and replace them while you have the engine out. The driver side is a bugger with the engine in, a LOT easier with it out. Go easy on the Molsons, eh? and you'll be fine.

 

@5280LR3 …
Sorry, right now I have a serious computer problem and sending from my wife's.

Haha and a few chuckles! Well I guess you know what you are doing, we put the Land Rover Oil cap on the Ford just to see what we got back, so thanks for the remove the harmonic balancer hint, I'll check the front sway bar bushings also. Trying to do this inexpensively, and as you are aware, that is a big problem... The Molson's are not the problem, I'm not much of a beer drinker, but my relatives are all Budweiser fans....

Oil filter on same side... more photos next week...

 

Lol. Canadians are Budweiser fans? What is the world coming to...
You could probably sneak the V6 out with the balancer on if you have a helper to guide the engine. I didn't and I wanted to make the engine as short as possible so as not to smash the radiator. Make sure to research how to correctly remove the 4.0L SOHC engine harmonic balancer. Again, FordTechMakuloco on youtube has some great info on working with the timing chains and just general knowledge on this bastardized engine.

 

Thanks for your photo, yes FordTechMakuloco has great videos on this engine, I have just got my computer back up, a real pain in the butt, all my backups were done in UEFI mode and I had a Devil of a time booting and recovering because always booted in BIOS mode and System Image always got refused until I finally figured out the process. Only have a day or two next week and then taking grandchildren out in our ancient motor home but will be sending a photo or two of progress I hope...

 

July 16 and serious issues with Ranger engine install are related to engine block motor mount points (different), we are putting together a solution but it likely won't be pretty...

 

Building a new motor mount for the Ranger engine (driver's side North America), will post photos within a few days. Apparently Ford produced engine blocks that had different external threaded and tapped ports for whatever reasons, but I'm sure we'll persevere and chive on. Sample attached...

 

[QUOTE=5280LR3;694424]Make sure you check the oil pan girdle for a place to install the oil temperature sensor. You have to have this sensor. I broke the wire to the sensor during installation of my engine and the truck went into fault mode. Lowered suspension, engine check light, etc. I can't see if there is a plug on yours or just a casting boss.
As I said before, I cannot stress enough the importance of at least changing the rear (passenger) side cam chain guides while you have the engine out. You have to pull the engine to change these. Ideally, you should do them all. Do it now. QUOTE]

Hi again, do you happen to know the thread size for the oil temp sensor? Also need to find out the plug info as I wrecked it when we pulled the engine. I can substitute, have worked in electronics forever, but would prefer to replace with OEM parts. If that is not possible, will make do with the "Russian" solution (fix it any way possible)... Thanks in advance...

 

Sorry, I do not know the thread size. Why don't you just change out the upper oil pan to the Rover one. Just a caution: there is a specific procedure when reinstalling the upper pan. Fordtechmakuloco shows how to do it. Your screwed if you broke the brown connector housing. I looked for hours in a wrecking yard trying to find that specific housing. I wound up using my original connector housing and cannibalizing a similar plug for the connectors to swap into mine. Luckily just my wires were severed. Just look at what you got and mcguyver something. Some of the connectors I found were close but had some sort of different wing to prevent it form going in the sensor. Only ones close were fords. Ford Edge had the closest one up by the front bumper, maybe for a horn or?? best of luck...
Could you do me a favor... look at the crankshaft to flexplate adapters and compare the two. Are the dimensions of the center hole the same? can you please try to fit both onto the stub on the Rover converter to see if the fit the same? Thx!

 

Changing the oil pans was going to be just another pain in the backside because of the hex inserts after the 8 bolts, plus the positioning of the gaskets, blah, blah, blah... We have drilled and tapped the Ford upper oil pan to accept the LR3 oil temp sensor # 4L3A-12A648-AB which is likely the same as a 2007 Ford F-150 5.4 V8 4L3Z12A648AB per the attached photo. The brown connector housing is likely also found for that as a Duralast 1770 coolant sensor plug with pigtails ($70) but I'll go to a wrecking/recycling yard and find a ford F-150 (5.4L) from about 2005 to 2010 for that thing also, or solder the connectors to the wires and silicone them into the thermistor temperature sensor. I assume (should never assume?) that you are asking about the spacer between the crankshaft and the flex plate? I had not thought about that but you are correct, the Ford and the ZF6HP26X transmission input shaft spacer and flex plate may well be different. Going away with the grandchildren to the mountains for about 6 days so will get back to you about Thursday or Friday next week with the answer and photos.... Eric...


Ranger upper pan drilled and tapped for LR3 oil temperature sensor

The blue stuff is Permatex automotive silicone for oil pans and boats and planes?

 

Forgot to add photo of the completed Ford Ranger to LR3 engine mount adapter...