All good stuff. Can you tell me what power saw you used and blades? I have a sawz all, skill saw and circular saw. so if it is one of those then what blade?
LR Calgary is quoting me at $1629.00 to have both LCA installed.
Considering I made a very BIG mistake (a $700 mistake actually) with Using the OTC Injector cleaner kit that RSW soluitions suggested to use.

I followed the steps dead to right and damaged the hose. Now I have leaking gas... The hose wont seal on either end and the replacement part is $489.00. plus labour. I tried cutting back the hose and reclamping andit will not seal.
I have worked on GM, LR, Fords, and four different Nissans and new screwed up this bad.

 

I understand the hose problem, not that I have had it, but similar.

I do not understand why a simple routine fix on any other vehicle can on a LR, lead to major surgery following a lengthy and expensive research investigation.

I recall just changing out one of those HID bulbs took me a week of investigation prior to actually replacing the bulb and I had long before, ordered replacement OEM Philips D2S bulbs out of the States to avoid the local pricing regime. I did succeed, but it was not the same as going down to the local GM dealer and picking up a new bulb and installing same, all in the same morning.

I am afraid, (and that is the term), to use anything other than the official LR fluids for the cooling, engine, tranny or gear related things; about the only fluid I do not fuss about is the windshield washer juice - well always the brand name Rain-X -40F/C stuff, summer and winter, never the house brand cheaper stuff - egads! It is not because of what I know, it is because of what I do not know.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 miscellaneous/Philips D2S 85122 C1 Xenon 4300K projector HID bulb

 

YUP! I hear ya.... I just about lost all my confidence on doing my own mechanics.. . However, my last major work on my Landy was Two Belt replacements and pulley, Mass air flow, and Throttle body cleaning Along with changeout of spark plugs.
Well onward snd upward! I am looking at these LCA on ebay. Would you recommend these or are there better?

LAND-ROVER-LR3-05-09-FRONT-LOWER-SUSPENSION CONTROL-ARM-LEFT-LH LR028249 NEW
And
LAND ROVER LR3 05-09 FRONT LOWER SUSPENSION CONTROL ARM RIGHT RH LR028245 NEW

Any advice is good advice!

 

The link below might be where those arms come from. I am always concerned about quality control on any of this far east sourced stuff.

If you want to do something interesting, you might try the arms that go on the RR Sport. Apparently the bushings are the same as on the B6 armoured 3's and 4's and uprated relative to the factory LR3 and 4 arms.


Good quality front right control arm for Land Rover Discvoery LR028245 RBJ500183 RBJ501540 RBJ501460 in Guangzhou, View control arm for Land Rover, Product Details from Hengshui Jiali Brake Parts Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com

 

I have no problems with the bolts. Straight forward. My concern is the ball joint side. I cannot find any videos showing exactly what needs to happen there. Just need to use a splitter to separate the ball joint??

I actually was going to buy this OTC injector cleaner myself and do this after watching the video. Looked pretty straight forward. How did it become damaged?


So after posting here and debating on which arms to purchase I went ahead and just ordered yesterday the Range Rover Sport lower control arms along with the bolts, washers, and nuts. I ordered from: http://www.partswebsite.com/landroverpartscheap/ (a LR dealer in Michigan) and they were about $75 per arm cheaper over retail prices and are genuine OEM LR parts.

Control Arm Front Lower Left (LR029306)
Control Arm Front Lower Right (LR029304)

They will go on next week some time. Local LR dealer wants $550 to install the arms and alignment. Local indie shop wants $450. I'm confident I can do it myself if I could get some help with separating the ball joint side of the arm from the vehicle. Cant find a video anywhere and I'd like to see what all is involved. I have a compressor with all the tools needed.

 

I presume you have seen this one re new lower A arms and the track rod ends? While you are at it, you might want to replace the end rods as well. I seem to be changing mine out every third oil change and each time, a wheel alignment so ....

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - How to fit new wishbone (lower arm) and track rod end

Keep us informed re the RR Sport A arms - that is I think a good idea - kind of what I plan for when I have to redo the ball joints - and the genuine is a good idea considering all the fuss involved.

An off shore tail light bulb can create enough trouble, let alone weak metallurgy, something you just cannot see. Just listen to the folks at Aston Martin as to their now new "deeply held beliefs."

 

Well darn it....yes might as well change them out. Easy enough. Do we care about OEM here too? About $53 a piece OEM and $50 for a pair otherwise.

Thanks for the video btw!!!!!!

 

Actually I think there must be something wrong with the official LR metallurgy for tie rod ends but yes, in for a penny, ..... Shipping wise, they may just tuck in with your A arm order and at least the freight should be carried by the A arms.

For the inner tie rod ends, my LR dealer here quotes about $150 each, (QFK500020 for the RH side), and $100 labour per side plus the alignment. That is how I alway end up with thousand dollar "oil change".

 

brjp1 I damaged the hose removing and installing the 3/8" Barb end. There is not another way to explain it. It has been done by several people. I think I just pulled too hard at the wrong angle. I bought new hose clamps and etc. It was just bad luck. My plan was to buy OTC kit and charge beer fee for using the OTC kit to friends. I don't think anyone will want to do this once I tell them my experience. Keep in mind, This kit does not come with a connection for all vehicles.... You have to make up your own required connection. or buy the WHOLE KIT from OTC. I am going to e-mail RSW Solutions and ask him a few extra Q's about this situation and see what his crystal ball will tell me!


So what saw do I use as a "just in case" method of cutting/removing bolts when I do my control arms? Official quote from L/R Calgary is $1633.26 for both LCA's NO Tie rods, No ball joints! Ouch. I just got sniped!!!! A yard for every dollar! so that is just under a mile! LOLOL! I am sorry I blended my two situations together here... IE LCA's and Fuel lines issue!

 

OK Back to LCA's I am going to spray ALL bolts and etc every for a week or two... then do it again.... Then spray again! Wait for the LCA's to come in and time it right to get it a shop for an alignment, change the caliper, rotor, and pads on the passenger side... if the pulsating does not go away... I am out of options.