Thank you Dave, that's exactly what I had to do. Got my Sawzall with new metal blades and cut the sleeve and bolt! It took me a while on the left arm but I did the right in 1/2 the time as I got more experienced :-)

Definitely not an engine oil replacement but still doable.

I tried to eyeball the alignment but I wasn't able to get it right, steering was not centered and wheels would squeak when turning left so I took it to the dealer and $100 later the truck now drives super smooth!

 

Has anyone used the Dorman?

I see prices everywhere from $99 to $350.

Looking at these:
Land Rover LR3 05 09 Front Lower Suspension Control Arm Right RH LR028245 New | eBay

This seller says he's had them on his LR3 for 3 years problem free.

Also on a seperate note: Does anyone have any instructions on removing the ball joint? I've read several threads on this and have not seen any pics or videos on how to separate it from the control arm. Debating doing it myself but have a indie shop that will do the replacement with my parts for $450 including the alignment.

 

Yes, I've got the doorman arms. I'm pleased so far. I got them at amazon I think.

I've kept my old arms. If the doorman bushings wear out, I'll get polyurethane bushings and new ball joints for the old arms.

 

I'm wondering if these or the dorman have the upgraded ball joint design as I've read about??

 

I don't know. I first read about that today. The ball joints did look slightly different from the old ones, but that could just be because they are aftermarket.

 

The new ball joint design requires the "new" A arm design. Like my 2005, I think your 2006 still had the original design ball joints and arms, hence you could install the new design ball joints in the old arms.

That is how this "replace it all" concept got started and then it was realized that it was overall cheaper to change all out rather than the fuss related to just replacing the ball joints.

As below, the new ball joint design has more flex or wobble than the original and a larger diameter. Below is from a post and link on disco3 re the new A arm design.

The new ones are 35mm in diameter instead of 32mm; also the pin with articulate 21 degrees instead of 19 degrees...

You can tell the difference between the two by a very slight chamfer on the outer rim of the machined part of the joint.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Ball Joints

As to heavy duty bushings, I think there is a year of RR Sport when one can purchase their A arms complete and you get uprated bushings as well as the new ball joint design. It seems the uprated bushings are the bushings used on the 3 and 4 with the B6 armour option.

Also the guys on the Australian site seem to think the genuine LR bushings are better than any poly bushing they have yet seen. See post 9 re the link below.

re:Lower control arm bush install. - Australian Land Rover Owners

 

These were the part numbers provided for the RR sport Lower Control arms earlier in this thread:

Also, I've heard the Range Rover Sports have better bushings in them:

Control Arm Front Lower Left (LR029306)
Control Arm Front Lower Left (Genuine Part # LR029306) - Land Rover ball joints\rod ends from Atlantic British
$329.95

Control Arm Front Lower Right (LR029304)
Control Arm Front Lower Right (Genuine Part # LR029304) - Land Rover ball joints\rod ends from Atlantic British
$309.95

Curious how we know if they fit my 2005 LR3?

 

You just might phone Atlantic British. It is possible one of the guys there knows. If so, please let us know as well.

 

In one of my last dealer service visits the dealer suggested to replace Upper & Lower Control Arms..they are always trying to drum up the bill.
When I took it to our indy tech from Germany I asked & he said he didnt notice anything.
What does one notice when cars needs this job?

 

For me its easy. I just roll along about 5 mph and hit the brakes hard and I can reproduce the noise easily.

Any jolting bump. Metal on metal basically