LR 3 gear not available and will not start
#1
LR 3 gear not available and will not start
Help I have a 07 LR3 and for the second time my shifter has locked in park. the first time after turning the ignition on and off about 7-8 time it unlocked. This time it didn't so I connected an ODii to get the code error and I could not get a reading. I tried turning the ignition on and off again 10 time but this time I turn a bit to far and now all I get is a clicking sound when I try to start. Another option for freeing the shifter was to disconnect the battery and do a hard reset. Now my shifter is free but the LR3 still will not start just clicking.
Any and all help will be appreciated…PS.. I already feel like a stupid BOZO for the ignition screw up but if it make you feel better to beat me up some more while you help >>>Go for It!!!!
Any and all help will be appreciated…PS.. I already feel like a stupid BOZO for the ignition screw up but if it make you feel better to beat me up some more while you help >>>Go for It!!!!
#3
Headlights work?
As above, I assume you just have a weak battery.
The fact your door unlock apparently works, suggests not all the power is gone, hence the interior lights work etc, but there is not enough to turn the engine over, or perhaps the starter motor has just quit.
As to the vehicle locking in Park, it is sort of supposed to do that and in theory will not start unless in Park or Neutral.
Also there is a mechanical Park release to the right of the shifter stick. How to access and effect the release is covered in the owners manual.
This manual release is for towing rather than starting.
Let us know how it all works out. I kind of suspect a day later, you are now back in operation.
The fact your door unlock apparently works, suggests not all the power is gone, hence the interior lights work etc, but there is not enough to turn the engine over, or perhaps the starter motor has just quit.
As to the vehicle locking in Park, it is sort of supposed to do that and in theory will not start unless in Park or Neutral.
Also there is a mechanical Park release to the right of the shifter stick. How to access and effect the release is covered in the owners manual.
This manual release is for towing rather than starting.
Let us know how it all works out. I kind of suspect a day later, you are now back in operation.
#4
#5
Right ON!!!!!
Guy.. You were right on!!!!. Took it in to Columbia Rover here in Portland Or. They checked everything out and that was it. A little over $200 out the door.. I could not be happier. Now I can hit opening day on the Deschutes River this weekend. Since I haven't had the LR3 that long and I ready to start flyfishing after the winter closure, I decided to take it to a shop for a once over.
The Tug is the Drug!!!
The Tug is the Drug!!!
#8
Yes it was the battery. They check the charging system and gave it a good once over for me. The Battery was all that was wrong. Most of my Wheelin is done on my way to fishing spots. I've hit almost everything in Idaho, Washington, Oregon, North/Cal, and BC in my GMCs now I need to do the same with my LR. Heading to the Deschutes this weekend.
#9
take a volt meter with you
You might want to take a voltmeter with you along with your fishing rod.
Yes, you may have had a tired battery and all is good, however sometimes a low battery is the symptom and not the problem. The alternator has a way of failing that is near impossible to actually figure out - well it is the regulator really; hence test the battery voltage when shut down on a regular basis for the next few days.
A new battery that is being successfully charged by the alternator should show about 12.5VDC when all is shut down and at least 13.5 when idling and no loads. Readings near 14 volts are very common, even up to near 15 volts.
If when idling, the volts are 12.5 or less, be very suspicious and take along a jumper / booster set up.
The link below is to a number of files related to replacment of the brake light switch.
A new switch is a twenty five dollar item and you can keep your hands clean as well. Probably the sooner you replace the switch, the less chance of you getting a bunch of false error messages. It is bad enough when the messages are accurate, but the false ones really send you on a wild goose chase. I see that the "how to replace" instructions have near 1800 views now so there are others who may be thinking the same.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Brake Light Switch Replacement
This following link, about two / thirds down the page, you will see files related to the alternator and regulator. They may be of interest.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 miscellaneous
Yes, you may have had a tired battery and all is good, however sometimes a low battery is the symptom and not the problem. The alternator has a way of failing that is near impossible to actually figure out - well it is the regulator really; hence test the battery voltage when shut down on a regular basis for the next few days.
A new battery that is being successfully charged by the alternator should show about 12.5VDC when all is shut down and at least 13.5 when idling and no loads. Readings near 14 volts are very common, even up to near 15 volts.
If when idling, the volts are 12.5 or less, be very suspicious and take along a jumper / booster set up.
The link below is to a number of files related to replacment of the brake light switch.
A new switch is a twenty five dollar item and you can keep your hands clean as well. Probably the sooner you replace the switch, the less chance of you getting a bunch of false error messages. It is bad enough when the messages are accurate, but the false ones really send you on a wild goose chase. I see that the "how to replace" instructions have near 1800 views now so there are others who may be thinking the same.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Brake Light Switch Replacement
This following link, about two / thirds down the page, you will see files related to the alternator and regulator. They may be of interest.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 miscellaneous
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