Ok so looking to maybe move from the D2 to an LR 3 here in the near future as the old gal is getting worse every year up here in Maine.
So what are the MAJOR PITFALLS??
and general pricing on on that I should be looking at?
Really don't do much off road but would like something newer for trips we make..

Keith

 

There are a few experts here that will give you the good stuff on problems, but from my vantage point, a Land Rover product is in the “exotic” category. I’ve owned a few Ferraris and they were the same.

Exotics are more temperamental and need significantly more TLC. But when they are properly sorted, there’s nothing quite like them.

Buy for condition, not for miles or price. A $12,000 LR3 that is pristine and well-sorted is potentially a much less expensive - and enjoyable - unit than the the $6,000 one that has been neglected.

 

I just picked up one for $1200 I assume it will keep me busy for a bit.

problems have been discussed a lot in the LR3 section here is a few of the headache points

coolant T
Thermostat housing
control arm bushings
lower steering shaft
EAS to varying degrees
water ingress from the cowl panel, a pillars or sunroof drains

 

obviously if you find one with service records, that would be best.

When you're looking at one, its the usual used car routine. Check all the fluids, drive it at high and low speeds, listen for any clunks over bumps (tell tale sign of bushings being shot), drive with the windows down and listen for any noises from the transfer case. Check under the front floor mats for any wetness, or staining from prior wetness (water issue mentioned above).

Either way, I'd set aside an extra $750-$1000 mentally on any one you buy. Personally, to me its more than worth the piece of mind to change the oil, tranny, transfer case, front diff and rear diff fluids. It can all be done in a couple of hours in your driveway.

Oh, potential sign the truck was maintained, look at the front diff breather tube (its between the coolant reservoir and driver's headlight under the hood. If it's straight, they havent done the tech service bulletin on it. The straight vent allows moisture to get into the front diff and gunks up preventing venting. If it has a 90* bend, the fix was done.

In terms of ownership, like you i went from a D2 to my LR3 (my D2 died from the front driveshaft snap). The LR3 is easy to maintain and Im at 113k with no major repairs. If you keep up on the routine maintenance, it'll take care of you.

edit: set aside another $500 for a GAP tool. It's essentially a plug in Land Rover tech computer. Lets you read all codes, reset parameters, turn off systems, calibrate the engine, tranny, air suspension, etc...essentially it'll more than pay for itself

 

ok so they can vary in price I see and most are from private sales that I ma seeing up my way from 2500 to 5k. yeah for the d2 I need to put 1500 plus frame repair so not really worth it to me but wife loves the d2 and not so keen on the lr3. She loves the rear spare tire mount on the d2 make it look sweet. D2has about 190k on here we have put 60k of that our self's on it.

from armyrover

coolant T
Thermostat housing
control arm bushings
lower steering shaft
EAS to varying degrees
water ingress from the cowl panel, a pillars or sunroof drains

the bushing EAS and water I have read about.
Coolant T that is a T bleader kind of like the D2 one?
and thermostat housing issues will have to look them up also
along with the lower steering shaft.

I have this currently
https://www.icarsoft.com/Product/s-3...verjaguar.html
and has bailed me out of lots of issues with the D2 and the 3 amigos

From blackandgold
Oh, potential sign the truck was maintained, look at the front diff breather tube (its between the coolant reservoir and driver's headlight under the hood. If it's straight, they havent done the tech service bulletin on it. The straight vent allows moisture to get into the front diff and gunks up preventing venting. If it has a 90* bend, the fix was done.
Ok that is something I can do too
and if you have a GAP tool your not that far from me lol

 

differentials too...drive at highway speeds and listen for a groaning/howling.

 

Is a 2007 with 166k miles worth buying ?

 

haha, yeah Brunswick is an easy drive. I do have a GAP tool.

in terms of reliability, I can put it this way...my LR3 has made the drive from RI up to Van Buren and Madawaska many times with no hiccups. Nothing but easy, pampered driving

 

HaHA I have been to both of them

 

The model year isn't that important if it's had updates and the mileage is fairly low. It all comes down to the kind of care it's had. In March I bought a 2006 with 182k on it without hesitation. It runs like a top. Minor stuff....water ingress, slight EAS air leak. No leaks, no diff groans, no bushing clunks.

I drove my share of examples before buying this one. Many of them had had very hard lives. It took me about a year to really find the one I wanted. I advise patience.