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The video above was appreciated. I regard finding the little wires somewhere in the loom as the hard part so it is nice to actually see them again
I might add that at least once a year, one might wish to "exercise" the manual door unlock from the outside, mechanism. I find the hardest part of that is remembering how to remove the keyhole protective cover and then to reinstall same. At least by doing that once a year, I tend to remember how.
I say "exercise" the unlock / lock mechanism as if it is never used, then the day you do need it because the electrics to not work for whatever reason, the mechanism may be "frozen" from lack of use. My 3 is now 15 years old and the mechanism continues to work fine and I credit that to its yearly exercise.
IPN500090 is the LR part number for the clips that retain the plastic of the door sill to the whatever that is below. These are more V shaped dull brown clips. These clips run about a dollar each.
FYC500040 is the LR part number for the clips that retain the radio surround and most other dash pieces. They are the U shaped shiny metal clips. They cost about four dollars each.
The jpg below is one I found in one of the forums that shows the splice location. I think there is another on the other side as well.
Let us know how it goes - if and where you find the green wires.
I was so happy to find this but then trying to find all the wires.. I have none at the floor (2004 Land Rover discovery American) all my wires go up to the headliner 🥴
So our key fobs suddenly stopped working. I’m assuming it’s the green wires. Ours is a 2008 discovery 3 right hand drive. Have I found the right wires. 2 one side 1 the other of splice. I was assuming I should be looking for only wires going into splice from one side. I have attached a picture for reference…. Any help gratefully
received
I really do not have much more to add to the discussion re wiring concerns other than what I said in the links in posts #4, #6 and #9 above.
Fortunately, I have not actually had any wiring problems re my door locks but I think I am having key battery charging concerns. About a month ago, for a couple of days, both my keys would not unlock the doors and I had to use the mechanical driver door keyhole.
It then occurred to me that each of the key fob batteries might be dead so as an experiment, per the jpg below, I then put each of my two keys on my Oral B toothbrush induction charger. The result was one key fob now functions as it should and the other works intermittently. My guess is that the fifteen year old batteries are both in bad shape and at least on one of the key fobs, the solder connection of the battery to the circuit board is cracked. I say that as I dropped the key fob on a concrete floor just prior to the start of the failures.
I think the induction charger circuit is still working at the ignition key surround as if it was not, I think the LR3 would not start as the induction circuit and the key code matching two conductors feed off the same point in the car computer circuit board. The one key that works well, I have not manually recharged it for a week or so, and it is still working so I am not certain yet if the ignition key surround induction charger is functioning or not. If it is not, I doubt that there is a practical fix for that and the Oral B charger will be the fix.
Did you successfully find the door lock wires? I am currently searching in my 2007 LR3 SE American version with left hand drive. I found some similar wires on the passenger side next to the passenger seat but it wouldn't lock or unlock when I re-spliced them together.
exercise the manual unlock / lock mechanism
