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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 10:59 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by bbyer
See my post #25 on page 3. It is the reset procedure for the LR3 but I think you have similar buttons that you could press.

I doubt anything bad will happen if you attempt the reset. It may be just that your air doors are a bit mixed up at times. The reset is supposed to get the logic of the door management back to factory setting or what we would regard as normal.

Other than that, I am not familiar with the LR2 heating system. I expect it is some sort of Volvo/Ford setup, hence you may have to troll some Volvo or Freelander forums and do a search under heater or HVAC or air doors.

Below is a link to the Freelander LR2 forums here on Land Rover Forums. There is probably something in there as most of these problems are not new; someone else has already suffered thru it.

LR2 - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
Thanks--I'll give it a try. I did ask on the LR2 forum, but no one had any input. Well, just one, but he replaced his entire heater, which I know is not the problem.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 11:26 PM
  #42  
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Default HVAC harder to repair than the Air Suspension

Not that it will make you feel any better, but I think the HVAC system on the 3 is harder to diagnose and repair than the air suspension.

The HVAC is sure harder to get at.

If the LR3 reset procedure does not work and you show the LR2 service dept the LR3 procedure, they might take mercy on you and tell you the procedure for your LR2, or maybe even just jump in and do it for you. It will be something simple - may not work, but it might.

There is not alot of downside for them. Just make certain your 2 is nice and clean inside and out and don't moan about it - act positive; they are people too.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 06:23 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by bbyer
Not that it will make you feel any better, but I think the HVAC system on the 3 is harder to diagnose and repair than the air suspension.

The HVAC is sure harder to get at.

If the LR3 reset procedure does not work and you show the LR2 service dept the LR3 procedure, they might take mercy on you and tell you the procedure for your LR2, or maybe even just jump in and do it for you. It will be something simple - may not work, but it might.

There is not alot of downside for them. Just make certain your 2 is nice and clean inside and out and don't moan about it - act positive; they are people too.
I'll chat with them--they are a good dealership and the service guys are easy to talk to. I know they can recalibrate the system, but that's $50 each time, and as the problem seems to self-correct itself, just wondering if it's something else that's causing it. I also have a local shop that specializes in Land Rovers, so will chat with them, too.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 08:25 PM
  #44  
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Default Disconnect the battery ground for an hour or so.

I have a couple of other thoughts.

I presume that at some previous time, the heater/AC worked find.

Since then, did you get an oil change or have anything done to the cooling system?

What I am thinking of is a battery disconnection or air lock/bubble developing in the cooling system.

The 3 can get air locks within and the bubbles will not work themselves out over time. This is bad for the 3 as in addition to heater problems, there can be engine cooling problems. I doubt your 2 is as sensitive but who knows.

You also might try disconnecting the ground cable from the negative battery post for say an hour or so - maybe longer.

Nothing bad should happen other than maybe resetting of clocks or radio station presets and sometimes good happens.

I have had systems return to normal just by disconnecting the battery for awhile. With the 3 there is a procedure called a Hard Reset, (detailed in my post #38, page 4 above), but do not try that on your 2 as bad things might happen - probably not, but what is candy for a 3 may be poison for a 2.

Removing the power from your vehicle systems lets most of the temporary memory capacitors bleed off. Then upon restart, everything has to reload itself and sometimes mixed up procedures straighten themselves out.
 

Last edited by bbyer; Nov 1, 2016 at 08:29 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 09:29 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by bbyer
I have a couple of other thoughts.

I presume that at some previous time, the heater/AC worked find.

Since then, did you get an oil change or have anything done to the cooling system?

What I am thinking of is a battery disconnection or air lock/bubble developing in the cooling system.

The 3 can get air locks within and the bubbles will not work themselves out over time. This is bad for the 3 as in addition to heater problems, there can be engine cooling problems. I doubt your 2 is as sensitive but who knows.

You also might try disconnecting the ground cable from the negative battery post for say an hour or so - maybe longer.

Nothing bad should happen other than maybe resetting of clocks or radio station presets and sometimes good happens.

I have had systems return to normal just by disconnecting the battery for awhile. With the 3 there is a procedure called a Hard Reset, (detailed in my post #38, page 4 above), but do not try that on your 2 as bad things might happen - probably not, but what is candy for a 3 may be poison for a 2.

Removing the power from your vehicle systems lets most of the temporary memory capacitors bleed off. Then upon restart, everything has to reload itself and sometimes mixed up procedures straighten themselves out.
You raise some good points. I bought it just over a year--no problems last winter. This spring, we went away for a week, and when we got back, the battery was dead. Which I have since learned is a common problem. The first indication of a problem was the auto up/down for the windows was not working. Found out how to fix. That's when the heater problem started. Took it in and they recalibrated it and fixed a couple of other problems. And, also told me that the electric plug I saw in the engine compartment was to keep the battery charged, which the prior owner had them put in. So, we'll see what happens next. Thanks.
ps The last time I was in the dealership, they had a $234,400 Range Rover in the showroom. Impressive! Nice to seat in and dream!!!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 10:13 PM
  #46  
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Default Stripper FFRR

Originally Posted by Crosboro
ps The last time I was in the dealership, they had a $234,400 Range Rover in the showroom. Impressive! Nice to sit in and dream!!!
Yeah, I did much the same a few months back at the local LR dealer, the main difference being I was not allowed to sit in it - looking was allowed however.

The price tag was somewhat above $300,000 and that stopped me cold - depressing really - no dreaming.

Initially, silly me and all, I had thought that a quarter million would drive the FFRR away, hence I looked more closely at the options list.

The options list priced the Autobiography option at $98,000; well of course, everyone knows that so the base price tends to rise quickly with a single option package priced like that.

I can then only presume that unhappily, you must have been sitting in a stripper. It seems with the Autobiography, you get visible stitching of the dash leather plus other necessities for the commuting grind such as a 29 speaker radio.

To that, you can then add the uparmour cost for the AK47 resistant Sentinel model.

Myself, I kind of like the Holland and Holland option - kind gives the interior the feel of a King Ranch pickup, but with a lockable gun cabinet in the finest French Walnut - very 4x4 with a wiff of off road, you know but only available with a green exterior.

Special Vehicle Operations ? Performance Drive - Land Rover
 
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 07:20 PM
  #47  
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Any luck with your heaters??? I found the heater box doors do not seal correctly inside the HVAC box
 
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 09:27 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by BritishautoworksSD
Any luck with your heaters??? I found the heater box doors do not seal correctly inside the HVAC box
It seems to self-correct. I've realized that it only happens after the AC is used. For a day or so after switching to heat, the driver's side blows cold, but after that, it's warm air. Have not had a problem since winter set in for good. So, maybe it is a problem with one of the doors not sealing completely for a bit.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 09:58 AM
  #49  
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stupid question: was one side set to cold? Was it on "auto?"
 
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Old Jan 6, 2017 | 10:35 AM
  #50  
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There's poll on this thread in the forum. I guess some people have flushed heater cores to fix "no heat" concerns.
 
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