LR3 heater problem
#61
#62
air lock is same a clogged heater core
There is no simple way to check for an air lock - that is the problem.
About all you can do is mostly drain the engine cooling system and then refill it again hoping that the process leads to fewer air bubble, not more air bubbles.
The cooling system of the 3 is particularly difficult to fill and de air lock so that is the basis of the problem. About all Land Rover provided for air release is that tee on top of the engine and I am not convinced as to how effective it is but it is messy to use. Note on the attached doc sheet drawing all the hoses that can hold air, let alone the engine chambers and such as the heater core.
Probably the first thing to do is without actually draining the system, is to try to bleed air out of that top bleeder tee and see if air bubbles seem to come out with the coolant. The removed coolant, one just pours back into the coolant fill bottle. Also look to see that the coolant level in the fill bottle is where it should be before you start the very messy process.
Regarding the correct numbers re the motors, the problem is still what motor is where and with this steering wheel thing, that is difficult to tell.
I do not suppose the numbers on the removed motors are in any way similar to the new numbers? Also, one would not be certain which motor came from where, so that is also a problem.
I just doubt it is a plugged heater core and would be trying to manually move all the air doors around to see where air comes out or not.
About all you can do is mostly drain the engine cooling system and then refill it again hoping that the process leads to fewer air bubble, not more air bubbles.
The cooling system of the 3 is particularly difficult to fill and de air lock so that is the basis of the problem. About all Land Rover provided for air release is that tee on top of the engine and I am not convinced as to how effective it is but it is messy to use. Note on the attached doc sheet drawing all the hoses that can hold air, let alone the engine chambers and such as the heater core.
Probably the first thing to do is without actually draining the system, is to try to bleed air out of that top bleeder tee and see if air bubbles seem to come out with the coolant. The removed coolant, one just pours back into the coolant fill bottle. Also look to see that the coolant level in the fill bottle is where it should be before you start the very messy process.
Regarding the correct numbers re the motors, the problem is still what motor is where and with this steering wheel thing, that is difficult to tell.
I do not suppose the numbers on the removed motors are in any way similar to the new numbers? Also, one would not be certain which motor came from where, so that is also a problem.
I just doubt it is a plugged heater core and would be trying to manually move all the air doors around to see where air comes out or not.
#63
I'm having a similar issue with my 2006 LR3. i will get heat out of the passenger side but not the driver. However, initially i only get luke warm air out of the right passenger vent and the center passenger vent is blowing hot, both blow hot after about 30 min. After the vehicle has been on about 30 to 45 min the left driver-side will blow hot air and the right will be barely warm. The floor vents and windshield vents on the driver side are same as the right driver vent and all on the passenger side blow hot. I have done the self test and it didn't display any errors. From reading previous post there are 2 things it could be (Heater Core, or blend motor/door). I'm leaning towards the Core right now. any thought or suggestions would be helpful before I start the painful process of replacing the core.
#64
Same problem please help
Hello jp just wondering if you found out what the problem was I have the exact same problem but the other way around my passenger side front and back are cold my drivers side are all warm when I turn the control to cold on both they both go cold when I turn them to warm the driver goes hot the passenger goes to roughly room temp also flushed the system and bled the coolant still no joy don’t want to change the motors as I seem it didn’t work for you and I have the exact problem in every way did you ever find out what it was thanks for any info
#65
I had the driver's side cold issue, a real problem in stormy Tahoe, the heated windshield couldn't keep defrosted by itself, cold toes too.
Dean, the Independent LR tech in Rocklin, CA, popped my heater hoses and filled the core with Calcium Lime Rust Remover and let it set for 24hrs, all working as it should now.
ps: is there a way to extend the heated windshield timeout?
Dean, the Independent LR tech in Rocklin, CA, popped my heater hoses and filled the core with Calcium Lime Rust Remover and let it set for 24hrs, all working as it should now.
ps: is there a way to extend the heated windshield timeout?
Hello jp just wondering if you found out what the problem was I have the exact same problem but the other way around my passenger side front and back are cold my drivers side are all warm when I turn the control to cold on both they both go cold when I turn them to warm the driver goes hot the passenger goes to roughly room temp also flushed the system and bled the coolant still no joy don’t want to change the motors as I seem it didn’t work for you and I have the exact problem in every way did you ever find out what it was thanks for any info
I'm having a similar issue with my 2006 LR3. i will get heat out of the passenger side but not the driver. However, initially i only get luke warm air out of the right passenger vent and the center passenger vent is blowing hot, both blow hot after about 30 min. After the vehicle has been on about 30 to 45 min the left driver-side will blow hot air and the right will be barely warm. The floor vents and windshield vents on the driver side are same as the right driver vent and all on the passenger side blow hot. I have done the self test and it didn't display any errors. From reading previous post there are 2 things it could be (Heater Core, or blend motor/door). I'm leaning towards the Core right now. any thought or suggestions would be helpful before I start the painful process of replacing the core.
Last edited by patski; 02-14-2019 at 08:13 PM.
#66
I have a similar problem, however i get cold air on driver side and warm on passenger side. I live in Dubai and never need to use heat.
Can i cancel both blend motor and move arms to cold and leave it there? I tried the self test with no luck. My original post below in another thread.
Hi All,
2009 LR3 blowing warm air on passenger side face vents when AC is on. Driver side AC is fine blowing cold. Rear AC is fine. Checked all fuses, they are fine.
Blower is also working fine. Blower control module is hot to the touch and looks fine.
I've read many threads pointing to blend motor door that could be stuck on the right passenger side which runs separate from the left driver side. The only door i can see in action is above the blower when i removed the air cabin filter where i can see the door opening and closing when AC is turning on/off. My understanding is that to reach the blend motors, i have to remove the center console (radio, navigation, etc).
Any ideas where the problem could be before taking things a part?
I have IID control code reader but no faults with HVAC
Thank you in advance for the helpToday i removed center console, radio, navigation, all the panels to reach the 5 denso motors that control the HVAC. I was able to reach 3 so far and they seem to work fine.
AC is blowing cold on left side but normal air on right. When i move the arms manually to close the doors on the HVAC that are connected to the motors, I can get hot air on both sides.
Would this be a problem with heater Core? if so why one side is cold and other is warm.
I am trying to understand the 5 motors that control the HVAC. Are 3 of them has the same function while the other 2 has a different function?
anything i do the temperature stays warm or right front side.
Any help will be appreciated.
Can i cancel both blend motor and move arms to cold and leave it there? I tried the self test with no luck. My original post below in another thread.
Hi All,
2009 LR3 blowing warm air on passenger side face vents when AC is on. Driver side AC is fine blowing cold. Rear AC is fine. Checked all fuses, they are fine.
Blower is also working fine. Blower control module is hot to the touch and looks fine.
I've read many threads pointing to blend motor door that could be stuck on the right passenger side which runs separate from the left driver side. The only door i can see in action is above the blower when i removed the air cabin filter where i can see the door opening and closing when AC is turning on/off. My understanding is that to reach the blend motors, i have to remove the center console (radio, navigation, etc).
Any ideas where the problem could be before taking things a part?
I have IID control code reader but no faults with HVAC
Thank you in advance for the helpToday i removed center console, radio, navigation, all the panels to reach the 5 denso motors that control the HVAC. I was able to reach 3 so far and they seem to work fine.
AC is blowing cold on left side but normal air on right. When i move the arms manually to close the doors on the HVAC that are connected to the motors, I can get hot air on both sides.
Would this be a problem with heater Core? if so why one side is cold and other is warm.
I am trying to understand the 5 motors that control the HVAC. Are 3 of them has the same function while the other 2 has a different function?
anything i do the temperature stays warm or right front side.
Any help will be appreciated.
#67
disconnect and or remove some of the motors
I have a similar problem, however i get cold air on driver side and warm on passenger side. I live in Dubai and never need to use heat.
Can i cancel both blend motor and move arms to cold and leave it there? I tried the self test with no luck. My original post below in another thread.
Can i cancel both blend motor and move arms to cold and leave it there? I tried the self test with no luck. My original post below in another thread.
I guess yes, disconnect the electric plugs from whatever motors divert the air from the hot fins to the cold fins. Some of my posts above have files on the interior of the heater / air conditioner unit and also a listing of what each of the motors do. It may be that the system will throw error codes with motors disconnected, but the solution there is to remove the appropriate motors, leave them electrically connected but hanging free, and tape over the holes were the motors were located. If this sort of works, then you know the problem is motor related and would be one of the removed motors.
#68
Why not just use an electric pump, a pail of glycol and the same method used to clean out tankless water heaters, substituting the vinegar with glycol? The recirculating flow of glycol through the heater core into the pail and back will remove all air and then you can connect the rest of the cooling system. I am new to Land Rovers but have used this method with many other pieces of machinery, including radar equipment... Just a thought, perhaps Land Rover cooling systems are more intolerant?
Last edited by enb54; 05-21-2019 at 12:08 AM.
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