Interesting idea. The control module sits behind the driver's side passenger door. If it is anything like the rest of the systems it is relatively simple and robust to overcome - the difficult part being figuring out the position sensing. I believe the part that overheats the diff is when the diff allows slip. I think I'd simply change it to an on-off setup. I had Auburn Ected MAX E-lockers in another rig that had the capability to be proportional from open to locked and they worked great!

 

I wish this video was better:

 

Another update, specific to code P0894-00 P0894 Transmission Component Slipping

With most vehicles this means the transmission itself, as I mentioned earlier this is specific to the rear differential on the LR3. After some digging I found something out, the slipping may not in fact be the differential clutches at all. It may be that I used a generic actuator - one that may be defective, not up to par, etc. The only way I can confirm would be to replace with an OEM unit. So I may have to do just that. I found more details on this code, specifically:





So basically the actuator motor itself may be slipping because its defective or not strong enough to keep the clutches in position. At least that is how I am understanding that info. It will probably be quite some time before I swap in another actuator, other fish to fry right now.

edit: I will note that I had this error before and now after doing an ECU software update on the rear diff locking module.

 

Small update, new actuator sent to me to replace my apparent defective replacement is still in the box. I have not had a rear diff fault in ages so never replaced it. It's almost like it had to break in or something, which is odd and unlikely. But the rear diff is locking, thats for sure and no faults anymore.

 

I'd be worried that the old actuator being on its way out could lead to the "clank" and need for diff replacement, possibly. I don't think those faults get displayed all the time. Hard to explain, but I went through this, myself.

My rear diff was clanking...I got it replaced. Dealer got LR to pay for it, if you can believe that! Weeks after, maybe months, I randomly got the "not learnt" message so started researching. I didn't realize until then that diff replacement did not include the actuator as well....but all while my previous diff was getting jacked up by the failing old actuator, I'd never gotten any faults.

Anyway, replaced the actuator and the driveshaft while they were in there, and all has been groovy since.

 

Hi there, I'll be swapping the motor on my rear diff soon. Were you able to do the ECU software update on the rear diff locking module using the IID GAP tool?

 

GAP manual now states to run self test after repairs to the rear locking diff, even for actuator change.

 

Yes, the GAP tool can do the update. I dont recall if it is one of the free updates in the tool already or if I had to pay the $35 fee to get the software updater from GAP. Best to do the update before the swap.

 

Thank you, I did end up having to pay for it, but it's a small price, especially compared to the dealership charges. I did my motor, a new battery, and reflash at the same time, cleared up all my issues.

tip for anyone else. If you remove the 4 bolts for the motor itself as well as the 4 for the housing, it was actually pretty simple to get it out. Just take it out in 2 pieces. Course, this was on a L322...

 

When you had it apart did you cycle the gear in the differential? Mine seems to move freely with no resistance till it clunks on both sides. Also what position should this be in when putting the actuator back in?