Considering purchasing a 2006 LR3 HSE with 119,000 miles for $9000. It has hail damage on the hood and some on the roof. (I'd replace the hood.)

It is in excellent condition. Things I noticed:

Low tire pressure light was on.
Low coolant level warning.
Belt looks new.
Dealer maintained.
Air suspension seemed to work fine.
Has the console fridge.
HD package (HSE standard?)

There was full inspection done that I plan to get ahold of this morning.

Am I throwing away $9000? Seems like most comparable are $14-16 without the hail damage...

 

Prices vary widely by market, but a 2006 w/120k miles would be between 9k-12k in this area w/o hail damage.

HD package is a rare goody though (if you will ever use it) and was not standard by any means. It was a $600 add on (which was a huge bargain at the time) to any trim line, but few opted for it.

Like any used car with 120k miles, you will certainly have to set money aside for repairs. These usually require a bit more money than other cars because parts are expensive and because they are so electronic (more gizmos and gadgets to go wrong).

 

With the hail damage I would try to get them down some on price. Also, with the damage check and see what type of title you're going to get with it (clear or salvage). If you plan on keeping it and running it into the ground and aren't worried about resale value then a salvage title is not going to hurt you. If you're thinking of resale then . . .

Find out if the air suspension compressor has been replaced. They all go out at some time and if yours has been replaced then you are ahead of the game in that instance.

Low tire pressure could just be a bad TPMS sensor. You can pick those up on Ebay fairly inexpensively.

On the coolant it's real easy to look at the overflow and see if you have adequate anti freeze. If you do then again, it's probably the sensor.

A replacement hood is probably going to cost you anywhere from $400 - ?. Look on Used Auto Parts | Used Car Parts | Auto Salvage. I found some there from $400 - $700 + shipping. I recently had to replace my lower tailgate and found one in Java Black, so I didn't have to paint it. It cost me $550 with shipping which was about $500+ less than a new one would have cost.

 

I talked a dealer down on an 05 with 90k to something like $8000 over the fact that it needed control arms up front and a new front diff. And this was one that was cosmetically in great shape (I ended up not even buying it). My concern with roof damage would be water ingress, and the fact that it has to be at least a thousand for a new roof without labor costs included. It seems cheap but could be a heap.

Speaking of ingress, check that the sunroof drains. Ask them to pour water in the sunroof tray and verify it drains behind both front tires. If not, the tubes are likely blocked and you should pray it hasn't already touched electrical things. Easy fix though (clearing the tubes).

Get a hold of that inspection, was it done by Land Rover? If so you should have a pretty accurate picture of what you're getting. If not, consider paying for one yourself or getting the seller to do one.

Common issues are:
>differentials going bad (usually front)
>control arms wear out (heavy truck)
>clunking front suspension (usually control arms)
>sunroof leaks into headliner and messes with electronics
>compressor air dryer clogs (from moisture) and kills compressor after a while
>leaks in air system, sometimes at valve block (1 per axle) and sometimes at each corner if it is a strut (x4).

Good indication of a compressor on its way out (a $1700 fix here in CA), is when you pump up to off road height for example, the compressor takes a long time and stays on a long time. Watch that the truck doesnt sag overnight as that means you have air leaks.

Did you test the locking diffs? make sure they still work as I have heard they have broken on some trucks where the owners were not using or testing them regularly (read: locking and unlocking them once a month or something).

AND because of the mileage just check they've changed fluids for stuff like the Diffs and T case, maybe even transmission too. Coolant hoses should have been done already but depending on climate they last a while.

Good luck! There's a list of stuff to replace if/when you snag one, but its fairly simple stuff.

 

Also inquiring for purchasing advice. Sorry for tagging along in this thread - don't know if it is best practice to start a new thread or try to keep similar conversations in the same thread.

Anyways, I am in the market for a new vehicle (used/new) but decided to set an arbitrary budget of 15k. Using various searches with my criteria (4x4/AWD, SUV towing capable of at least 1.5k lbs or Extended Cab Pickup), I noticed some Land Rovers popping up.

Simply, these vehicles appeal to my aesthetic sensibilities and would come with the utility I am looking for (even more utility than I would ever need). After reading much on the interwebs, I still can't seem to get a good picture of Land Rover reliability trends.

After sitting in a '04 Range Rover, I think I would prefer the more utilitarian interior of the LR3. Most of the vehicles showing up have any where from 80k to 120k miles on them and years are '06 to '08. One dealer nearby seems to only carry Range Rovers with detailed service histories with 1-2 owners.

Providing all the expected problems both minor/major have already been dealt with, do these vehicles continue to be high maintenance repair wise? I can handle the occasional minor glitch, failure and regular service, but I don't want to be sinking an consistent additional $1000+ a year in repairs for the next 3-5 years.

Whatever vehicle I do get, I intend on making it my daily for the next 3-5 years. I would also like to keep it until for the rest of its lifetime (which makes sense for a pick-up or a Land Rover for an owner that seems to "get it").

Appreciate any feedback thrown my way.