2006 LR3 HSE as locking rear diff. The locker is a motor atop the rear diff. Land Rover says there is no gasket, so must be RTV. Locker must be cleaned, sealed, and then change diff fluid to remove any contaminate.

Heard they are hard to reach. Will also be replacing drive shaft.

What is best procedure? Come in from bottom or top?... I have heard both
Is RTV correct?
Should I or can I test motor while off diff?
After complete, I hear you must calibrate.

No dripping, but locker area oily from slow leak

All input helpful.... And yes Dakota, this is the same LR3 you spotted the leak, wrong fluid by mechanic, and I complained the rear locker was slow to engage. Although better correct fluid, still slow.

 

I actually did make a post on this, forgot! LOL Here, might help a little:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...ection-101515/

 

Holy Shnikies... Quite the info on that link Dakota.

Looks doable. The software is scary. I have built many computers and 'hot flash' the BIOS. But never updated a 4x4 rolling computer

 

How do you get it to super extend height?

 

See other post about that.

As for software and calibration you need the GAP tool fo course.

 

OK, GAP tool needed.
Just found the 'secret' menu on nav screen. Hold for six seconds and a keypad shows; put in code and LR3 info pops up including option to update software.
Found out my '06 LR3 Nav is running on 2001 software
Also found LR3 is running on software dated 2004

The LR mechanic said 'don't update. If it isn't broke, don't fix'. , Same mechanic using wrong fluid in E-Diff. Should I update or not?

 

That info may not be entirely correct in there.

The rear diff should certainly be updated. What happens is the rear diff actuator gets damaged by the faulty software design. Kinda like jamming a car in park when it still moving - probably a bad analogy but there is a physical conflict that can happen. This results in eventual damage. If let go, the diff itself can be damaged if the actor fails in a position that has the diff clutches engaged partially or fully. Its variable, so anywhere from 1% to 100% clutch travel. The software resolves the issue before damage gets too far. BUT, if damage is started or happened then the actuator requires replacement. It may not even throw codes when first damaged but you may heard a loud clank from the rear end when using the vehicle in situation were the e-lock is needed.

So yes, that update is required. The best combo is update and replacement actuator. $300 for OEM though, shipped from the UK. Cheap ones, $150 but as I found out, cheap is not always best but I took the gamble anyway. And OEM unit will be going in this summer.

As for wrong fluid, yes you MUST use carbon clutch friendly fluid. That is Catrol BOT 720, LR branded $tuff, or GM Part # 92184900 which is used on GTOs with carbon clutched.

Attached in the article about the software update on the e-diff:

 

Thanks

I run all Land Rover brand fluids and AMSOIL for engine (hope that's good). Maybe bad luck for me, bought OEM starter for LR2... died just after warranty, Got a new off brand, works great

 

I find no really need for LR fluids. I just use quality fluids that are comparable. The diffs, transfer case though are pretty much open to anything good. The transfer case specifically just needs ATF fluid I believe, per the manufacturer. The trans, you can use Motocraft Mercn SP, its identical to Lifeguard 6 in spec and made for the trans we have. Best part is 12 quarts is only $90.