if the filter and fluid were changed, are you positive it was filled correctly? (sorry if i missed that part)

 

The IID does indeed display valve info, as well as pretty much everything every ECU on the car measures. The problem with those figures are knowing what they're -supposed- to be. The IID is a very powerful tool, but unless you can look at the valve figures and know what the problem is just by looking at the values, they're useless.

 

I had the same problems and I was able to knock it out with a fluid/filter change, but it didn't happen immediately. I suspect new fluid cleared a blockage in the valve body, but I can't prove that as I didn't take it apart before/after altering the transmission. Either way the issue is almost certainly in the valve body or TCM as the old fluid was not burned and the clutch wear is astonishingly minimal.

 

So you have a IID tool? If so, have you gone to the live values section for the transmission and looked at any of the data available? See the "transmission mysteries" thread for an image I posted showing the solenoid amperage samples. The tool will also show if the converter is going into lockup and a ton of other data.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Ever since I had the transmission flush performed both problems (RPM fluctuation and kick before stop) are much less noticeable. It's as if it's "relearning." If the problem doesn't completely disappear in a few days, I will try the reflash. Thanks.

 

Thanks for reply. I had the plugs changed not long after the fluctuation problem developed. So I can safely rule that out. I appreciate the suggestion.

 

Yes, Blackngold77, the filter and fluid were changed by my mechanics. Although I can't be positive it was filled correctly, I assume that it was. As I noted in another response, it's performing better (far less noticeable RPM fluctuation and kick before stop) ever since the transmission flush was performed.

 

I have very similar issues with my LR3 05, and from all the descriptions and methods of remedy, I am in the process of addressing the solenoids that deal with the TC. They can be purchased and replaced for under $150, and while that is being done, I am going to change out all my sleeves, seals and such. Here is a cost, and parts description for the whole maintenance repair:
PROPOSED SPENDING LIST: $341.49
-Transmission pan upgraded to Britpart metal unit with separate filter
1 Set (1) $50.99 (ROXCKAUTO) TRANSMAXX A95010D {#7710701} 4WD; (w/ Metal Pan)
1 Set (1) $16.19 (ROXCKAUTO) TRANSMAXX 95300B {#7711402} Pan Gasket, Fiber (For Metal Pan)
-Replaced all 7 solenoids (1068 298 044 01) $300
1 Set (1) $169.00 (AMAZON) Friday Part 1068298044 Solenoid Set 6HP19 6HP26 6HP26A61 6HP32 for AUDI BMW 525i FORD
-Flushed all the old fluid and put in new 6HP fluid ($200)
1 Liter(3) $74.37 (ROXCKAUTO) TRANSMAXX M465ZF61 {#7718461} ZF Lifeguard Fluid 6 (1 Liter)
-Replaced the Mechatronic Seal Adapter (0501 219 952 01) $17
1 Set (1) $30.94 (EBAY) NEW Mechatronic Sealing Sleeve + Adapter BMW 24347588725 / 24347588724

There are several post that help to identify exactly which solenoid correlates with the downshifting so you can be sure to ensure that the problematic solenoid is in fact replaced. I hope this helps.

 

Thanks for sharing Yockstar. I finally decided to sell my LR3 and I'm not sure if the problem resurfaced for the new owner. I'll pass along a link to this thread to him.

 

I've been having a similar issue for a year + now and it's been driving me crazy. I was really hoping that this thread was going to end with some kind of conclusion but sadly, no.

I've tried a number of the fixes listed here and nothing has helped.

-Reflashed the transmission via GAP tool and while it did help the california stop kick, it didn't resolve the downshift from 2nd to 1st kick.
-RPMs are definitely worst at low RPM but it seems as if it's when it shifts too early or something and there's not enough power for the task at hand.
-I find it very interesting that the issue pretty much disappears when in manual mode, even in the exact same gear at the exact same speed at the exact same throttle level. It makes me think it's an electrical issue.

This is potentially a secondary issue but I've had a periodic transmission fault (incorrect gear ratio) over the same period of time. P0730 and P0732. Not sure if that's related. Those issue come up under heavy torque situations mostly.

Anybody else have any luck fixing this issue?