I fixed it by selling the LR3 and buying a D5.

 

I’m not sure selling my $5000 vehicle and buying a $75,000 vehicle is an option.

Also, here is a video of my solenoid amperages while driving and the rpm are oscillating. You can see the change in solenoid 6.

https://imgur.com/a/g4GqL59

Does this point to anything specific failing? Or is this just another symptom of a problem farther up the chain of command?

 

Just passing by this thread without reading it all, I know, but is solenoid six torque convertor lockup? I think it is. So if six is an issue it will cause subtle fluctuations as it locks/unlocks but not like a shift from 5th to 6th would.

 

I'm too dumb to understand everything in here but perhaps the answer is inside...


Manual

 

So a little disclosure, I do mobile auto service repair, and I had a client with a gear link shifter linkage issue. The car wouldn’t shift into gear, and right next to the valve body was a linkage component where the bolt had simply failed to grip down on the gear linkage rod. Tightened it up and the car shifted normallly…….ok, let me take a look at my LR3’s gear linkage component. At a glance seemed good, but when I looked with a pesky scrutinizing eye, I was able to identify the most subtle trail of slippage, indicated by about 2 (two) mm of rust trailing marks. I mean it was like it was just slightly nudged. The bolt holding the link was still very tight. I had to spray some penetrate on it to loosen it.

i made an adjustment while the truck was in park, pushing the gear linkage rod into the coupling, then tightening it. Took a spin and realized that I adjusted it in the wrong direction. The gear was too snug to get into park smoothly and wasn’t lining up with the R N D squarely. Re-adjusted in the direction away from the linkage component, trying to line it up with the beginning of the rusted trail marks I saw. Took a drive and Bingo, we were all set.
hadn’t had a skip since and running like normal. I will post some pics a bit later. I hope this helps anyone in this situation.

 

Sorry for delayed reply. I never experienced the RPM fluctuation when shifting manually. That information made most of the mechanics I consulted with conclude that it was the torque converter. Best of luck it, it is a maddening issue.

 

I have the RPM fluctuation issue (2008 LR3 HSE 4.4L) but do not have the "kick" that others have. Mine has started to stutter a bit when going uphill. The RPM fluctuation does not happen in cruise control or if in manual mode (as you suggested) but I have noticed that when I go over to manual mode and keep the same throttle pressure (on the gas pedal) and speed that by nature of switching to manual it raises the RPM level to a higher constant. This makes me think that the fluctuation may be getting disguised or by the higher RPM level somehow. Just a thought.

QUESTION: I hear many discussing the torque converter however has anyone here put in a new torque converter and it fixed the problem? Thank you

 

Assuming you are doing this while using cruise control going 60 mph or faster, this rpm change is because the transmission downshifted. At 60+ mph in a constant cruise, the transmission is in 6th gear. When shifting to “manual” mode, you start off in “sport” mode. Sport doesn’t use 6th gear, so if you are in 6th gear the transmission downshifts to 5. It doesn’t enter manual mode until you initiate the first downshift (or upshift), until then you are driving in Sport mode.

 

Thanks for the reply; and I should of clarified the speed. For me my problem with the RPM fluctuation occurs between roughly 20-50 mph and over 50 mph it's fine. It's in this 20-50 mph area when i switch over to manual that the RPM's raise to a higher baseline even when the throttle remains constant. I've noticed this happens at 20, 30, 40 mph regardless. This is the same for all our LR3's (we have 3) so this makes sense that it is a sport mode thing.

 

This sounds perfectly normal.