LR3 software updates
Hello, I've got a 2005 V8 LR3 approx 130 miles. currently the truck is running well aside from some transmission issues. The old fluctuating RPM problem. Before looking at major rep[airs I wanted to be sure all my software is up to date. Plugged the GAP in and found many available updates. Transmission, Navigation, Body Control, transfer Case, Rear Diff all state that updates are available.
Part of me wants to install all these updates but really the only one that is important is the tranny. So, what would you do? Should I just install the ones that are to help fix a current issue or should I install all of them just because I can.
If I'm not doing all I would like to do transmission and Nav and go from there. Thanks for any advice.
FYI,GAP suggests that updates only be installed to help fix an issue.
Part of me wants to install all these updates but really the only one that is important is the tranny. So, what would you do? Should I just install the ones that are to help fix a current issue or should I install all of them just because I can.
If I'm not doing all I would like to do transmission and Nav and go from there. Thanks for any advice.
FYI,GAP suggests that updates only be installed to help fix an issue.
Software updates don't fix the issues you have. The only software update that fixes anything would be for the transmission California stop. I did almost every update on mine, mainly because I just wanted to.
Ok, Dakota thanks for that info. At the very least I would do the Tranny update but is it not really worth the $40 each to do the others? Thanks for your imput. Thought the Nav update might freshen up the screen? Any the rest I'm guessing are "if it ain't broke don't fix it" train of thought.
FYI, along with the fluctuation in RPM I also get the Cali-stop but not all the time. It's occasional.
FYI, along with the fluctuation in RPM I also get the Cali-stop but not all the time. It's occasional.
If you have fluctuation in rpm while driving it could be your torque converter needing TLC (or you needing a new one). If it’s fluctuation at ignition try cleaning the throttle body.
The satnav won’t get nicer no matter what you do. It’ll look early 2000s forever. There is a “free” update to satnav, you need to update your IID to another version, which enables inserting a destination while car is moving.
As you have a 2005 you can update the IPC (free) with “MY07+ for pre-MY07” which adds clock on dash also if you update BCM (free update) you’ll get 3-flash turn signal. The latter must also be enabled in CCF.
The satnav won’t get nicer no matter what you do. It’ll look early 2000s forever. There is a “free” update to satnav, you need to update your IID to another version, which enables inserting a destination while car is moving.
As you have a 2005 you can update the IPC (free) with “MY07+ for pre-MY07” which adds clock on dash also if you update BCM (free update) you’ll get 3-flash turn signal. The latter must also be enabled in CCF.
I'd try a fluid/filter drain and refill for the rpm fluctuations. That fixed mine. The slow leak I had with the old pan had allowed more fluid to escape than I thought. These are very sensitive to correct fluid level. But follow the refill instructions to the letter or the level won't be correct.
I'd listen to GAP about avoiding updates unless you have a specific problem that might be corrected with one. The tranny update will not fix this.
I'd listen to GAP about avoiding updates unless you have a specific problem that might be corrected with one. The tranny update will not fix this.
Thanks for the response everyone. YES, I've done a fluid and filter change. That was approx 2 weeks ago and I'm not seeing any improvement.
I'm having a few issues with the transmission. RPM fluctuation around 1500 and also the occasional bump stop issue. Aside from that it's been good.
I did notice that the fluctuation is also occasionally happening when in manual mode. I have sourced a replacement throttle pedal and sensor. Research has told me that this fixed people issues in some situations. That's first, second will be the transmission update through GAP. If those two do not improve my situation I'm not sure what I'll do as I doubt I'm gonna spend thousands on repairing or replacing my transmission because it "might" be the torque converter or might be solenoid issue. I'm going with the cheaper possible fix 1st for my own sanity.
On a side note GAP has been very helpful, always getting back to me within 24hr and giving me helpful info, not just trying to sell me things I might not need. Appreciate everyone's help. Once I've done these attempts I'll update.
I'm having a few issues with the transmission. RPM fluctuation around 1500 and also the occasional bump stop issue. Aside from that it's been good.
I did notice that the fluctuation is also occasionally happening when in manual mode. I have sourced a replacement throttle pedal and sensor. Research has told me that this fixed people issues in some situations. That's first, second will be the transmission update through GAP. If those two do not improve my situation I'm not sure what I'll do as I doubt I'm gonna spend thousands on repairing or replacing my transmission because it "might" be the torque converter or might be solenoid issue. I'm going with the cheaper possible fix 1st for my own sanity.
On a side note GAP has been very helpful, always getting back to me within 24hr and giving me helpful info, not just trying to sell me things I might not need. Appreciate everyone's help. Once I've done these attempts I'll update.
Plug in your GAP tool and go into your transmission live values. Display the pressure control solenoids amperages 1 through 6 and gear information (torque converter status and shift type. Display current gear also. the solenoids should be roughly 0.0480A and then up to around .848a depending on their mode or sequence when driving. Any reading that is lower than 0.0480 or wanders around in between 0.0480 and the 0.848a might be of concern... or it was in my diag anyway. These were read from my 2006 4.0L V6
Looking at my test screenshots correctly operating solenoids were at 0.0480, 0.780 and 0.848 Amps consistently. The bad solenoids were at 0.352, 0.504 and 0.432 amps and would sometimes change to other random values. I've also noted shift flaring on one occasion recently. I hadn't driven it for a while and the battery wasn't fully charged. I trickle charged the battery back to full and the flaring disappeared. Any electrical diagnosis on a LR3 needs a fully charged battery...
The GAP can show mode of the torque converter. Either it's "open" or "closed" (lockup).
Last edited by 5280LR3; Sep 19, 2022 at 07:54 PM.


