LR3 stuck on bump stops
Hi all.
just picked up an lr3 2007 v8.
it’s on the bump stops.
was getting the following codes and red suspension warning light C1A20-64 (AF) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
C1131-92 (AF) Air supply - Component failure - performance or incorrect operation
C1A00-54 (AF) Control module - System programming failure - missing calibration
U3000-54 (AF) Control module - System programming failure - missing calibration
Reset and flashed firmware with gap iid tool.
now only getting the following with now yellow suspension warning light.
C1A20-64 (AF) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
the compressor (I was told was neweer but not sure what model until I get it jacked up)
kicks on seemingly as it should. Then nothing moves.
looking for suggestions. Be it rebuild the valves & compressor or other. The faults seem like it needs calibration but don’t think I can do that with out it first getting to a normal ish level correct?
just picked up an lr3 2007 v8.
it’s on the bump stops.
was getting the following codes and red suspension warning light C1A20-64 (AF) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
C1131-92 (AF) Air supply - Component failure - performance or incorrect operation
C1A00-54 (AF) Control module - System programming failure - missing calibration
U3000-54 (AF) Control module - System programming failure - missing calibration
Reset and flashed firmware with gap iid tool.
now only getting the following with now yellow suspension warning light.
C1A20-64 (AF) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
the compressor (I was told was neweer but not sure what model until I get it jacked up)
kicks on seemingly as it should. Then nothing moves.
looking for suggestions. Be it rebuild the valves & compressor or other. The faults seem like it needs calibration but don’t think I can do that with out it first getting to a normal ish level correct?
any time you suspect a compressor problem, we need to know the galley pressure. If you can't built over 200 psi in a reasonable time there's likely a problem with the compressor. There are a couple of valves in the compressor that can be addressed, cracks in the drier, blockages in the drier, sooooo don't just jump in and replace the compressor, but chances are it does need some attention.
any time you suspect a compressor problem, we need to know the galley pressure. If you can't built over 200 psi in a reasonable time there's likely a problem with the compressor. There are a couple of valves in the compressor that can be addressed, cracks in the drier, blockages in the drier, sooooo don't just jump in and replace the compressor, but chances are it does need some attention.
can I read that pressure from the Gap iid tool? If so where abouts might I find that
Yes-live values, suspension, galley pressure. Also you can check the temperature, another good data point, I don't recall the normal temp offhand but if it goes too high the compressor will shut down.
I don't get why you would have flashed the firmware without knowing what compressor you have. Assuming you matched it anyway, you clearly have a large leak or compressor failing. If Hitachi style, locate the small output hose on the dryer of the compressor - large black cylinder - and spray the end where the two hoses come out. Cracks like to form on that dryer end cap between the two lines. From there you would have to work forward to the center valve block to check for leaks then finally at the front and rear valve blocks. If the pressure increases too slow it will never raise the Rover because it needs a minimum pressure to open up the valve blocks and then get air into the struts.
I don't get why you would have flashed the firmware without knowing what compressor you have. Assuming you matched it anyway, you clearly have a large leak or compressor failing. If Hitachi style, locate the small output hose on the dryer of the compressor - large black cylinder - and spray the end where the two hoses come out. Cracks like to form on that dryer end cap between the two lines. From there you would have to work forward to the center valve block to check for leaks then finally at the front and rear valve blocks. If the pressure increases too slow it will never raise the Rover because it needs a minimum pressure to open up the valve blocks and then get air into the struts.
I had some other faults and a red suspension light before. Someone had suggested I reflash the firm ware. Prob Risky with out having more info. But. Ya
thanks for the insight. I ordered a o ring kit and dyer refresh kit with metal cap even if not the issue all will be beneficial going forward to make the suspension reliable.
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