Alright so I played around with it a little. I jacked up the front and the rear and the codes for the height sensors went from permanent to temporary. While the vehicle was running I cleared the codes and the compressor would kick on for a few seconds before shutting off and the errors coming back. So I do believe a calibration should fix my issue. My GAP tool should be here on Friday so that’s exciting.

 

I was going to add, jack up the front and rear to get the ride height sensors back within range. Glad you did that. If the compressor is a Hitachi, don't toss it. Rebuild kits are available for cheap and it's easy to fix. The AMK compressors can not be rebuilt.

I'd say recalibrate. The GAP tool is well worth the expense, you'll get your money out of it. If a recalibration doesn't work, check the plugs on the front and rear air suspension control blocks. Some leak internally and push out the plug. They are also cheap and easy to rebuild with o rings and some Vaseline. The aftermarket ones generally use weak plastic and strip at the voss connector threading... I've never had one survive longer than a year.

 

My GAP is here but I’m currently not with the vehicle so I had a few questions. The guided calibration seems easy but all the videos I’ve watched the vehicles are more or less sitting at normal ride height. Can I calibrate the vehicle if it’s sitting on the bump stops? Or does the vehicle need to be aired up in order to complete calibration? Does the GAP tool have some kind of built in feature where I can air up the shocks manually?

 

The calibration feature allows you to raise/lower individual wheels one at a time to get to spec. Measure from the center of the round wheel cap to the arch if the wheel well. You may be pressing buttons for a while if the suspension is working.

But first check any faults, screenshot any relevant ones under the suspension category, then clear all faults. This tool reads lots more, I bet there is useful info in the faults. It also lets you program new keys, re-code modules to your VIN (contact GAP, I think it's an extra $25 fee per module), reset the vehicle, read live values from any sensor, and lots more.

 

Ok so I played around with the gap tool. I was able to raise the rear with the tool but the front didn’t budge. I haven’t performed the calibration yet as I just wanted to get it up to regular height before doing so. But every time id try to raise the front, I’d hear a valve go off near the left rear wheel… sounds like air quickly escaping a valve. This is where the rear valve block is located? Does this mean one of the fittings/o-rings has slipped out of place or needs replacing? I didn’t bother taking the wheel off to check as it’s over 100 degrees out so I’m going to wait till sundown.

 

No, do not. The rings must remain dry of anything that could collect contaminants. Also depending on the o-rings, the vaseline can slowly dissolve them.

 

Nothing should happen in the rear when adjusting the front. You need to investigate further. The only thing near the left rear wheel that should leak air is the compressor of course, and it can vent air as needed. But it should not when trying to raise. It may help to have a second set of eye when doing the guided calibration - which start with the front left, then front right before going to the rear backs at rear right then finally rear left.

 

Hmmm, what should I look for? The sound is coming from the area where the rear valve block is located. The compressor will run like normal but as soon as I shut it off the quick air releasing sound will be heard for a split second near the rear. But only when trying to raise the front.

 

Yeah, the rear block is not far form the compressor. Just a foot or so. You just have to get in there and listen or bring a spray bottle with soapy water and go to town. But if the rear went up the front should. Keep in mind if the front bags were VERY much deflated then you will need to get a lot air into them before you see movement. I suggest you try the guided calibration and concentrate on the first corner. Usually with guided it will make the compressor run when doing so.

 

Aye aye captain. I will run the guided calibration when the sun sets. I will report back