lr3 Tranny partial change
#1
lr3 Tranny partial change
After seeing this informative video on transmissions.
I feel its safest not to do a full fluid change as I do not know the condition of my current fluid and replacing it all could cause slippage.
I have 98k on it no issues. So I figure a partial change is safest, that way I don't loose all the grit that may be helping my clutches grip.
So I want to just drain the pan without replacing the filter. Just drain out all the fluid I can then adding fresh. Some new is better than no new fluid.
So how much fluid will I be able to get out if I just suck it out the fill hole?
I assume some will be left in the torque converter.
Is these doable? Just suck it out the plug and add new?
I feel its safest not to do a full fluid change as I do not know the condition of my current fluid and replacing it all could cause slippage.
I have 98k on it no issues. So I figure a partial change is safest, that way I don't loose all the grit that may be helping my clutches grip.
So I want to just drain the pan without replacing the filter. Just drain out all the fluid I can then adding fresh. Some new is better than no new fluid.
So how much fluid will I be able to get out if I just suck it out the fill hole?
I assume some will be left in the torque converter.
Is these doable? Just suck it out the plug and add new?
#2
#3
Land Rover says sealed for life.
#7
You won't need to suck it out the fill hole, it'll come pouring out if the truck is off. But that'll only drain a few quarts worth. I guess you could try to pump some out through the fill hole, but that's going to be a lot of mess and work for what might struggle to be a 30-50% fluid change.
Most drop the pan and change the fluid that way, which is more thorough and allows you to replace the mechatronics sleeve that almost always needs replacing if it is original (it usually leaks).
Don't believe the "don't change transmission fluid or it'll kill your transmission" message. If it's reached that state, it's gonna die anyway. As Abran said, it might put of the inevitable failure a little bit, but keeping original fluid is not going to keep your transmission happy if you've left it in there for 100k miles.
Most drop the pan and change the fluid that way, which is more thorough and allows you to replace the mechatronics sleeve that almost always needs replacing if it is original (it usually leaks).
Don't believe the "don't change transmission fluid or it'll kill your transmission" message. If it's reached that state, it's gonna die anyway. As Abran said, it might put of the inevitable failure a little bit, but keeping original fluid is not going to keep your transmission happy if you've left it in there for 100k miles.
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RAJOD (08-29-2017)
#8
You won't need to suck it out the fill hole, it'll come pouring out if the truck is off. But that'll only drain a few quarts worth. I guess you could try to pump some out through the fill hole, but that's going to be a lot of mess and work for what might struggle to be a 30-50% fluid change.
Most drop the pan and change the fluid that way, which is more thorough and allows you to replace the mechatronics sleeve that almost always needs replacing if it is original (it usually leaks).
Don't believe the "don't change transmission fluid or it'll kill your transmission" message. If it's reached that state, it's gonna die anyway. As Abran said, it might put of the inevitable failure a little bit, but keeping original fluid is not going to keep your transmission happy if you've left it in there for 100k miles.
Most drop the pan and change the fluid that way, which is more thorough and allows you to replace the mechatronics sleeve that almost always needs replacing if it is original (it usually leaks).
Don't believe the "don't change transmission fluid or it'll kill your transmission" message. If it's reached that state, it's gonna die anyway. As Abran said, it might put of the inevitable failure a little bit, but keeping original fluid is not going to keep your transmission happy if you've left it in there for 100k miles.
One option that does not involve that is to get a different pan that holds 1 less quart that can be pulled without having to monkey around with the motor mounts and exhaust.
That tube would need to be cut to get the current pan off completely or would need to raise the motor.
Or did you mean just loosen the pain let it drain then put the original pan/filter back in?
#9
I just need a shop that will do the drop the pan. Its pretty involved having to pull the motor mounts etc. Meaning they can easily break other things just changing the oil creating a new issue not related to the tranny.
One option that does not involve that is to get a different pan that holds 1 less quart that can be pulled without having to monkey around with the motor mounts and exhaust.
That tube would need to be cut to get the current pan off completely or would need to raise the motor.
Or did you mean just loosen the pain let it drain then put the original pan/filter back in?
One option that does not involve that is to get a different pan that holds 1 less quart that can be pulled without having to monkey around with the motor mounts and exhaust.
That tube would need to be cut to get the current pan off completely or would need to raise the motor.
Or did you mean just loosen the pain let it drain then put the original pan/filter back in?
You could just loosen and let it drain, but that would create a mess. The tranny fluid stinks and is an oil, so you really don't want it everywhere.