LR3 won’t turn over, flashers on, locks locking and unlocking.
This is my first post but I’ve read through tons of post on this site over the years. Unfortunately I have not found a fix to my new problem. I have a 2006 LR3 with approx 180k miles on it. It’s been a great ride. Drove it one day with my dogs and one of them was standing on the downhill assist button(don’t think this caused my issue)came home dropped them off and went to get back in and would not start. All I get is the faint click with the hazards going on and off and the locks locking. My security light flashes and park brake is red with my temp gauge maxed out, with all the other alarms. My scan tool says “communication failure”. What I’ve done. Checked all fuses and relays, installed new battery, sent the cluster off to be repaired, checked what grounds I could find, checked the Tccm for corrosion. Still have have not gained anything. I can jumper the starter solenoid and it will turn over but won’t fire. I’m at a loss. It seems alot of people had luck with the Insturment cluster but that didn’t seem to be my problem. Any help would be great.
I've had this happen in both my '06 and '05, and it was reproducible. I'm not saying this applies to you, but in case it helps, here is how I invoked it:
Plugged in my GAP tool with the engine running...with a weakened battery. I did a hard reset and that eventually cleared it. Since then, I never plug in the GAP tool with the engine running. If you happened to plug in your scan tool under similar circumstances (with your prior battery) maybe that did it.
Plugged in my GAP tool with the engine running...with a weakened battery. I did a hard reset and that eventually cleared it. Since then, I never plug in the GAP tool with the engine running. If you happened to plug in your scan tool under similar circumstances (with your prior battery) maybe that did it.
I don’t see a brake light switch in your work so far. There are two circuits in the switch, one is for the lights, but the other is for the additional electronics that want to know whether or not the brake pedal is applied.
One of the circuits gets cooked over time and does not reliably switch on/off at the same time as the other.
I found this out one time when I used my scan tool to activate the brake lights without pressing the pedal, and I was shocked to see my dash light up, flashers, door locks, etcetera.
That’s an easy fix, but usually gets done first. I suspect you may have done it, but just forgot to list it.
If you’ve already done that, after searching the service manual, the first thing listed for a “no crank” is the immobilizer system. I’ve never dealt with that. Check the owners manual for proper reading of the security status light to see if you are in an immobilized state.
Good luck!
One of the circuits gets cooked over time and does not reliably switch on/off at the same time as the other.
I found this out one time when I used my scan tool to activate the brake lights without pressing the pedal, and I was shocked to see my dash light up, flashers, door locks, etcetera.
That’s an easy fix, but usually gets done first. I suspect you may have done it, but just forgot to list it.
If you’ve already done that, after searching the service manual, the first thing listed for a “no crank” is the immobilizer system. I’ve never dealt with that. Check the owners manual for proper reading of the security status light to see if you are in an immobilized state.
Good luck!
Great info folks. I appreciate it. I will check it out and let you all know. I change the brake switch several years ago but not recently. I also need to buy a GAP tool. I currently just have a standard OBDII scan tool. Thanks again and if anything else comes to mind, please let me know.
Great info folks. I appreciate it. I will check it out and let you all know. I change the brake switch several years ago but not recently. I also need to buy a GAP tool. I currently just have a standard OBDII scan tool. Thanks again and if anything else comes to mind, please let me know.
I did with a lot of help from Hugh166. Having a GAP tool will really help you, but you can start by taking a resistance reading off pins 6&14 on your OBDII plug below your steering wheel. Start there and see what readings you get. Do this with the battery disconnected.
Last edited by Rover_ham; Sep 19, 2024 at 07:30 AM.
jackel have you sent your cluster out to be fixed? that is more often than not the cause of your concerns. rover ham may have had an odd ball... just last month i had the same exact concern you are having. and clusterfix fixed my concerns.
mine was so much like yours. drove fine one day. put in garage. next morning would not start. hazards and flashers going. no crank. HDC fault on dash. no radio or hvac. door locks cycling.
mine was so much like yours. drove fine one day. put in garage. next morning would not start. hazards and flashers going. no crank. HDC fault on dash. no radio or hvac. door locks cycling.
That was my first thought as well. Sent my cluster off to be fixed with no luck and then sent my ECM off to be fixed with no luck. Mine ended up being a broken wire behind the left rear tire. The yellow/brown and yellow/black wires are the main canbus wires and they power the majority of your major modules (cluster, abs, TCM, etc) if one of them gets broke/shorted the whole thing goes down and gives you crazy alarms just like what you are having.


