MAF sensor solved the problem! Until it didn’t.
#11
01-11-2020, 08:33 PM
Camel Trophy
Hard reset is pretty much pulling the battery for a few minutes. But always wait for 2 minutes after powering off the vehicle to disconnect, gives times for the computers to wind down for whatever weird reason. I assume you mean Delphi, which is OEM for a lot of stuff. Its probably okay. Denso was OEM though and is even mentioned in the training material. Denso part number: 22204-22010 will work. Anyway, lets assume this sensor is not the issue at this point. Are you only getting lean now? A bad MAF sensor will cycle lean/rich. But if you are only getting lean then that generally means a vacuum leak. So again the intake plastics need to be checked. Has the throttle body or EGR valve been removed recently?
#12
01-11-2020, 08:34 PM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hudson Valley, New York
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Can you explain “hard rest” ? I couldn’t help myself today and cleared the codes. Back on and we are now back to lean codes on both banks - which was the original situation. So - I have an new MAF sensor and the same problem. The sensor is a delhi - not denso ... for what it’s worth.
I need to check records on the 02 sensors but they were replaced. There WAS and issue w one of them however. I’ll circle back.
I need to check records on the 02 sensors but they were replaced. There WAS and issue w one of them however. I’ll circle back.
https://imgur.com/gallery/iMajWbN
#13
01-11-2020, 08:40 PM
Camel Trophy
I am confused as to why they replaced one upstream (front) and one downstream (rear) sensor, not both up/down. Best practice is always in pairs because if one is getting down and out the other will also go soon. The downstream only have to be replaced when they generate a hard fault which is rare because the cats, if working right, keep them rather clean. You can usually get twice the life out of downstream versus the upstreams. Upstreams should get replaced every 100k miles but I shoot for 60 to 80k miles.
Post the actual code numbers you are getting.
Post the actual code numbers you are getting.
#14
01-12-2020, 09:50 AM
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hudson Valley, New York
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Here is the original freeze frame data from
months ago. I had 171 and a 173 - consistently. No misfires or any other codes.
News; when I shut her down last night check engine light was on ! This morning when I started her - no check engine light on! That’s certainly different behavior ! Drove around town. Put 9 miles on her and she’s still off. I didn’t hit the highway though. I don’t know what I’m saying - just hopeful that the MAF was the issue and that the computer is communicating with the royals in GB and sorting everything out.
https://imgur.com/gallery/np9apTF
months ago. I had 171 and a 173 - consistently. No misfires or any other codes.
News; when I shut her down last night check engine light was on ! This morning when I started her - no check engine light on! That’s certainly different behavior ! Drove around town. Put 9 miles on her and she’s still off. I didn’t hit the highway though. I don’t know what I’m saying - just hopeful that the MAF was the issue and that the computer is communicating with the royals in GB and sorting everything out.
https://imgur.com/gallery/np9apTF
#15
01-12-2020, 09:56 AM
Camel Trophy
Old data is irrelevant at this point, need new codes.
When you clear closes, the problem does not go away which is why they come back. So if you were running on old adaptations (some say you have to reset this with a tool/laptop and a battery disconnect does not reset them) then its very possible that the MAF was causing issues, so the ECU "adapted" to one extreme end. Once the new one was in the ECU has to re-adapt but is still working on the values from the old MAF. After x-miles of driving and so many starts it will be properly adapted to the new one. So maybe that is what happened. Keep driving and see if things come back. If they do, get codes.
When you clear closes, the problem does not go away which is why they come back. So if you were running on old adaptations (some say you have to reset this with a tool/laptop and a battery disconnect does not reset them) then its very possible that the MAF was causing issues, so the ECU "adapted" to one extreme end. Once the new one was in the ECU has to re-adapt but is still working on the values from the old MAF. After x-miles of driving and so many starts it will be properly adapted to the new one. So maybe that is what happened. Keep driving and see if things come back. If they do, get codes.
#18
01-13-2020, 09:34 AM
Camel Trophy
#20
12-27-2022, 02:40 PM
Hello gents. 2006 with 232,000 miles on it. Love the thing to death but the check engine light has been on for about nine months. Since she’s old I don’t like spending a ton of money on her so I’ve been Tinkering around with her myself. I had concluded that she needed a MAF sensor which I installed. No dice. The check engine light appeared immediately. Fast forward, I have an Expired inspection and so I was forced to take it to my local mechanic to see if he could figure it out. He is not a rover mechanic by any stretch of the imagination but he’s a very good honest guy who swears by his own diagnostic prowess. Calls me next day and basically tells me that the car needs a MAF sensor. He said the one I installed wasn’t OEM and it’s causing the issue. Done. $500 later, I pick the car up and she’s driving just fine. I drive about 25 miles and under previous conditions the check engine light would have already reappeared. I felt pretty confident that the issue was fixed until the check engine light came back on. I just plugged in my tool and to my surprise the freeze-frame data says that I actually now have a Rich Code!
I then proceed into the Landrover diagnostics Part of my scan tool and it actually has two Rich Codes and two lean Codes. What’s happening? Is the car’s computer just trying to figure **** out right now?
what’s my step? Keep driving her for a few cycles ?
I then proceed into the Landrover diagnostics Part of my scan tool and it actually has two Rich Codes and two lean Codes. What’s happening? Is the car’s computer just trying to figure **** out right now?
what’s my step? Keep driving her for a few cycles ?
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