Need new brake rotors/pads --use dealer?
Camel Trophy
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,244
Likes: 482
From: North of Seattle
I don't know guys, opinions are all over the board on this and I think it's just personal preference. I've used OEM pads and rotors for 11 years and I'm only on my 3rd set....at 121k miles. That's pretty good for a 6000 lb vehicle, IMO.
Houm, What dealer quoted you that price? I need front and rears too. I think I recall you use Bellevue?
I need to replace the rear rotors/pads on my 06 LR3 HSE. The dealership quoted $950, and a reputable (but not Rover specific) shop quoted $450. Is there anything that would challenge a shop not accustomed to servicing Rovers?
I would guess labor and OEM are the two biggest reasons for the difference in price, but half-off is pretty drastic. I plan to verify if the local shop quoted quality parts, but is there anything specific to a Rover to avoid when buying/installing new rotors/pads?
I would guess labor and OEM are the two biggest reasons for the difference in price, but half-off is pretty drastic. I plan to verify if the local shop quoted quality parts, but is there anything specific to a Rover to avoid when buying/installing new rotors/pads?
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 304
Likes: 30
From: Millstadt, IL
When I bought my Rover the pads were shot at 23K miles. Replaced pads only (stock), from Rovers North, am at 60K now. Ordered full pads and rotors from AB, installing in couple weeks ( stock pads and rotors, AB best buy) and expect to go 60K more, even pulling trailers ( w/brakes ). Wife got 75K on AB brake kit in D1.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 153
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
Bodsy's Brake Bible link
I think now is the time to repost the link to Bodsy's Brake Bible.
Download the latest version; v1.6a. As of when I last looked, there has been over 15,000 views/downloads of his free 36 page pdf. I see he now has a French edition as well.
All the questions are answered including the electronic parking brake re the rear disks that can get you in real difficulty when doing a "simple" brake job. The 3 is no Ford pickup!
The black art part is probably towards the end, (page 27/36 and following), re the electronic parking brake.
Rather than perhaps black art stuff, it may better be called leading edge, or maybe bleeding); also the set and unset procedure applies when doing just a normal rear pad change.
If you ignore the set unset procedure, then a few miles down the road, the squealing will almost assuredly start.
The good news is the fronts are more normal, but the rears, not so!
In total, for the vehicle, you actually have three pair of brake assemblies to deal with: (1), the front pair of rotors, and pads, (2), the rear pair of rotors and pads, and then (3), the parking brake pair of drums and shoes – yes, drums and shoes sitting behind/inside the rear rotors.
That is why you can use the parking brake as a “dynamic” system to safely slow the vehicle from highway speeds. The owner’s handbook explains the procedure as below.
Dynamic operation: In an emergency, the park brake can be applied dynamically: i.e. with the vehicle travelling at more than 3 km/h (2 mph). Pulling up on the lever and holding it up gives a gradual reduction in speed. The brake warning indicator will illuminate accompanied by a harsh sound and “Caution! Parkbrake applied” appears on the message screen.
The stop lamps also will illuminate. Releasing or depressing the lever will cancel the parkbrake application.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Bodsy's Brake Bible/Bodsy's Brake Bible Version 1.6a - LATEST VERSION
Below is the link to the folder with all the files, 1.6a included.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Bodsy's Brake Bible
Download the latest version; v1.6a. As of when I last looked, there has been over 15,000 views/downloads of his free 36 page pdf. I see he now has a French edition as well.
All the questions are answered including the electronic parking brake re the rear disks that can get you in real difficulty when doing a "simple" brake job. The 3 is no Ford pickup!
The black art part is probably towards the end, (page 27/36 and following), re the electronic parking brake.
Rather than perhaps black art stuff, it may better be called leading edge, or maybe bleeding); also the set and unset procedure applies when doing just a normal rear pad change.
If you ignore the set unset procedure, then a few miles down the road, the squealing will almost assuredly start.
The good news is the fronts are more normal, but the rears, not so!
In total, for the vehicle, you actually have three pair of brake assemblies to deal with: (1), the front pair of rotors, and pads, (2), the rear pair of rotors and pads, and then (3), the parking brake pair of drums and shoes – yes, drums and shoes sitting behind/inside the rear rotors.
That is why you can use the parking brake as a “dynamic” system to safely slow the vehicle from highway speeds. The owner’s handbook explains the procedure as below.
Dynamic operation: In an emergency, the park brake can be applied dynamically: i.e. with the vehicle travelling at more than 3 km/h (2 mph). Pulling up on the lever and holding it up gives a gradual reduction in speed. The brake warning indicator will illuminate accompanied by a harsh sound and “Caution! Parkbrake applied” appears on the message screen.
The stop lamps also will illuminate. Releasing or depressing the lever will cancel the parkbrake application.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Bodsy's Brake Bible/Bodsy's Brake Bible Version 1.6a - LATEST VERSION
Below is the link to the folder with all the files, 1.6a included.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Bodsy's Brake Bible
Last edited by bbyer; Apr 30, 2016 at 10:06 AM.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 153
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
not quite the way I read it on my copy of Bodsy's
I read the recommendation as being AFTER or for EVERY 50 miles of off road use. This probably makes sense as the parking brake is a pair of old style brake shoes and a brake drum with a perimeter disk.
The drum I presume may fill up with crud from the off roading.
With normal pavement driving, the only time I look at my parking brake is at pad change, however I suppose it should be more often, depending upon use. In my case, I am afraid to use the parking brake as for at least the early model units, they tended to be on the temperamental side.
9. How to adjust the Electronic Park Brake
The Electronic Park Brake is operated by a pair of brake shoes on the inside of the rear brake disks.
The manufacturer recommends that you strip, clean and adjust the EPB after 50 miles of off road conditions or arduous use.
If you have a loud screeching noise when the EPB is applied, then often an adjustment of the Electronic Park Brake will fix this.
This procedure MUST be carried out when you change your brake disks and/or brake shoes. If the pads are worn below the limit, you should replace the pads as well as go through the Electronic Parking Brake Shoe Bedding In Procedure.
Winching
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 594
Likes: 40
From: Newport, Rhode Island
Akebono all the way!
I've used akebono pads front and rear on all my rovers and they wear great and cause no brake dust at all, the only recommendation I would give is get the rotors where the hubs are coated, they sell for about $95 a piece but well worth it. I got a cheap uncoated one and you could see all the rust forming on the hubs. 
Live and learn.
Live and learn.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 153
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
abandoned railroad track look
Yes, the abandoned railroad track look thru the wheel spokes is not really the effect that one is normally hoping for. I made the same mistake and ending up wire brushing and painting the hubs with heat resistant silver paint.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,222
Likes: 130
Just set off my front wear sensor. For now it has been spliced, ziptied up above the upper control arm. I still have just enough pad material left to go for a bit until I do all pads/rotors.
So the Genuine OEM rotors, and maybe Akebonos for pads? I have just gone through one full set of Textars, which were great for the price but dusted like crazy. I would probably just want no-dust.
If someone could possibly quantify/qualify the difference in stopping distance between say the OEM/Ferodos, and the Akebono/Ceramic, I'd be grateful!
Will probably order parts this week.
So the Genuine OEM rotors, and maybe Akebonos for pads? I have just gone through one full set of Textars, which were great for the price but dusted like crazy. I would probably just want no-dust.
If someone could possibly quantify/qualify the difference in stopping distance between say the OEM/Ferodos, and the Akebono/Ceramic, I'd be grateful!
Will probably order parts this week.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 153
From: Edmonton Alberta Canada
stopping distance vs coefficient of friction
I doubt that anyone who knows will tell. By that I mean, only perhaps Akebono and Ferodo know for certain and even that will be a numbers interpretation depending upon who is paying.
The link below is what Ferodo says - everyone else is worse - something about stopping distance.
http://www.ferodo.com/en-US/Competit...-Distance.aspx
Ferodo used a Ford C-Max per below. To me, it does not look much like a 3.
2016 Ford C-MAX Energy Plug-in/Hybrid Electric Car | Ford.ca
This is what I can find on Akebono.
The link below is is a collection of the Akebono material.
Literature Library | Akebono
In the link below, Akebono used a Crown Vic for their test and guess what, Akebono says they are the best - something about coefficient of friction.
http://akebonobrakes.com/sites/defau...yer_073114.pdf
An Interceptor does not look much like a 3 either, but then again, you have probably seen more than one in your mirror.
The C-Max you probably ran over; well maybe not as I cannot believe the C-Max will even do a 100 mph that the Ferodo test says it required. As we all know by independent testing, both the 3 and the Crown Vic will attain the required speeds and maintain them as long as the rubber lasts.
I am happy with my Akebono's installed 60,000 miles ago and there is still more than 3/4 left - but then I have not done any independent testing.
The link below is what Ferodo says - everyone else is worse - something about stopping distance.
http://www.ferodo.com/en-US/Competit...-Distance.aspx
Ferodo used a Ford C-Max per below. To me, it does not look much like a 3.
2016 Ford C-MAX Energy Plug-in/Hybrid Electric Car | Ford.ca
This is what I can find on Akebono.
The link below is is a collection of the Akebono material.
Literature Library | Akebono
In the link below, Akebono used a Crown Vic for their test and guess what, Akebono says they are the best - something about coefficient of friction.
http://akebonobrakes.com/sites/defau...yer_073114.pdf
An Interceptor does not look much like a 3 either, but then again, you have probably seen more than one in your mirror.
The C-Max you probably ran over; well maybe not as I cannot believe the C-Max will even do a 100 mph that the Ferodo test says it required. As we all know by independent testing, both the 3 and the Crown Vic will attain the required speeds and maintain them as long as the rubber lasts.
I am happy with my Akebono's installed 60,000 miles ago and there is still more than 3/4 left - but then I have not done any independent testing.