New Front Brake Rotors Warping
Hello,
A similar post is out there, but didn't exactly address my issue and mentioned that if new rotors / pads where not adjusted properly that the brakes would heat up and warp the rotors. How do I find out what "adjusted properly" means?
Long version of the story: I have a 2007 LR3 that I purchased a few months ago. I am in Billings, MT and there is no LR dealer for over 300 miles from here. I had a local mechanic replace all rotors and pads with LR parts. He was adamant that this was the best option as I suggested some aftermarket parts. I had no brake issues prior to this other than some slight squeal on normal braking, I just wanted all new with 108,000 miles on it and not knowing the history. After about a week of normal driving, I started having steering vibration on normal braking. Hard breaking it would not vibrate and it did not pull one side or the other.
I took it back in and my mechanic accused me of getting the brakes hot and hitting some water. He claimed this warped the front rotors. He resurfaced them "to within original factory tolerance" and sent me on the way.
After one long (about 300 miles) trip on the interstate, it started again with the same vibrations. It seems to be getting worse, but maybe I am just more sensitive to it. It has been about a week again of what I call very normal driving. My wife is a BMW driver and accuses me of driving like Betty White, so I really don't think it is my driving.
All other parts related to the front end seem to be in good condition and the alignment is fine.
So, any thoughts?
Thanks,
Stephan
A similar post is out there, but didn't exactly address my issue and mentioned that if new rotors / pads where not adjusted properly that the brakes would heat up and warp the rotors. How do I find out what "adjusted properly" means?
Long version of the story: I have a 2007 LR3 that I purchased a few months ago. I am in Billings, MT and there is no LR dealer for over 300 miles from here. I had a local mechanic replace all rotors and pads with LR parts. He was adamant that this was the best option as I suggested some aftermarket parts. I had no brake issues prior to this other than some slight squeal on normal braking, I just wanted all new with 108,000 miles on it and not knowing the history. After about a week of normal driving, I started having steering vibration on normal braking. Hard breaking it would not vibrate and it did not pull one side or the other.
I took it back in and my mechanic accused me of getting the brakes hot and hitting some water. He claimed this warped the front rotors. He resurfaced them "to within original factory tolerance" and sent me on the way.
After one long (about 300 miles) trip on the interstate, it started again with the same vibrations. It seems to be getting worse, but maybe I am just more sensitive to it. It has been about a week again of what I call very normal driving. My wife is a BMW driver and accuses me of driving like Betty White, so I really don't think it is my driving.
All other parts related to the front end seem to be in good condition and the alignment is fine.
So, any thoughts?
Thanks,
Stephan
I have not experienced any warping with the stock rotors and my Akebono pads and it certainly doesn't seem to be a common occurrence since I don't recall many threads on that subject at all.
That being said, if I had warped rotors, the very first thing I would be looking at is my brake pistons. I would think that one piston may be seized (or if not seized, the caliper is at least not sliding like it should on the pins).
Did your mechanic tell you which rotor was warped/out of spec? I would hope that he would have told you if you had a seized piston since he would have had to move them in order to install the new pads. However, do you know if he cleaned and/or relubed the caliper pins when he did the brake job? I personally think that this is an often overlooked, but mandatory maintenance procedure with each brake pad change.
That being said, if I had warped rotors, the very first thing I would be looking at is my brake pistons. I would think that one piston may be seized (or if not seized, the caliper is at least not sliding like it should on the pins).
Did your mechanic tell you which rotor was warped/out of spec? I would hope that he would have told you if you had a seized piston since he would have had to move them in order to install the new pads. However, do you know if he cleaned and/or relubed the caliper pins when he did the brake job? I personally think that this is an often overlooked, but mandatory maintenance procedure with each brake pad change.
Seems that the caliper pins might be the culprit. I didn't ask for details, but got the impression that it was both front rotors. I will double check that and post more details.
I did find several (not a lot, like 3 or 4) references to this problem and did not find any suggestions. Yours seems to be the most appropriate answer so far.
I will post when I know more, but if anyone else has info, please add it.
Thanks,
Stephan
I did find several (not a lot, like 3 or 4) references to this problem and did not find any suggestions. Yours seems to be the most appropriate answer so far.
I will post when I know more, but if anyone else has info, please add it.
Thanks,
Stephan
If caliper slides are not lubricated properly, if rotors were not cleaned of storage rust proof, if pads are not lubed for squeal and, if the lug nuts and all fasteners are not torqued to specs, and if the brakes were not broke in properly for the first 500 miles can cause warped rotors. Also, if the rubber lines were not replaced, a warped sensation can develop as the old lines flex.
Last edited by Jagfixer; Sep 12, 2015 at 09:33 AM. Reason: more info and spelling
All good info here.. I would also suggest considering it a possible and likely coincedence that you have bad lower suspension bushings, or tie rod ends inner/outer at that mileage... what have you done prior to this?
Also-- Great brake reference in Bodsys Brake Bible.. Here's a PDF.
Also-- Great brake reference in Bodsys Brake Bible.. Here's a PDF.
I haven't done anything else yet. This was purchased at 108K miles and now has 114K. I rebuilt the transfer case and plan to rebuild the rear diff soon. The break thing was just to try and kill the squeak that was occurring when I stopped and I just thought it was a good idea.
There is no play in the steering at all. I am also wondering what about the LR3 design would cause warped rotors with these items being worn? This is my first LR, so forgive me if I am missing something obvious, but I have driven Jeep, International Scout, GM's, and Fords down to the point you needed to pay attention to steering them (don't recommend that) and never ever even heard of warped rotors from warn front suspension parts.
On top of that, they were certainly not warped when I had my mechanic replace them, so if that was the culprit, wouldn't it have shown up prior to the new rotor install?
I am just not hearing anything that sounds like the correct answer yet. I have a call in to my mechanic for more details, but nothing yet.
Stephan
There is no play in the steering at all. I am also wondering what about the LR3 design would cause warped rotors with these items being worn? This is my first LR, so forgive me if I am missing something obvious, but I have driven Jeep, International Scout, GM's, and Fords down to the point you needed to pay attention to steering them (don't recommend that) and never ever even heard of warped rotors from warn front suspension parts.
On top of that, they were certainly not warped when I had my mechanic replace them, so if that was the culprit, wouldn't it have shown up prior to the new rotor install?
I am just not hearing anything that sounds like the correct answer yet. I have a call in to my mechanic for more details, but nothing yet.
Stephan
The worn steering and suspension can give the feeling of warped rotors
If you like to ride the brake or drive 2 foot you probly will over heat em, and at 108 miles you probly need a suspension bushing overhaul these are horrible on wearing out parts
If you like to ride the brake or drive 2 foot you probly will over heat em, and at 108 miles you probly need a suspension bushing overhaul these are horrible on wearing out parts
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