After reading on here for several months anon, finally signed up with my first question...

Bought a 2008 LR3 several months ago, need to replace the tires. Have BFG 265/65/18 currently. Been doing alot of research, and have settled on these due to my expected on/off-road usage and price point- Cooper Discoverer AT 265/65/18. Read good things about Cooper and the At3 specifically. Also read they make slightly different versions for different sellers that are essentially the same. Being new, and having read lots of different opinions on load index, etc for LR3's, I'd rather just confirm about these exact tires than miss something and something go wrong once installed.

Rubbing- the BFG's rub slightly now when turned all the way one direction, not concerned if stays the same. Not looking to install rods right now. The AT3 4S and LT on Cooper's website give a 31.5 diameter.
Load index- nearly bought the 265/60/18 but was 110T, these are 114T.

I would greatly appreciate the correction of any misinformation I have above and a green or red light on purchasing these. Thank you.

 

Cooper tires run a little large, but 31.5 should be okay. Forget rods anyway, get a GAP tool and create your own saved height setting. You can raise it .5" if you want and leave it at that height.

 

Remmber to get an alignment. I ended up purchasing a lifetime alignment with my LR3 knowing I'd be in more than once.

 

Just backing up the above. Rods are nifty, easy and cheap. You can get by with them for now if you dont want to invest in a GAP IIDTool. But one issue is if the air ride faults out and slams to stops you can not recover into regular height with rods, they push the sensors way beyond spec and you end up with a new set of faults. The solution is to jack it up to get the sensors back in a readable range, then it will air up. Granted a fault on the road may be a rare issue, but it can happen.

Lifetime alignments are a good idea. Firestone can sometimes do them with the LR3 but their site will say they can not align one. Call or go in. I am going to replace my entire suspension system soon, then I will get a lifetime alignment. $200. And you want to get an alignment after making any "permanent" change in height. If you dont your bushings will fail in fast order and the vehicle will not even right right. When doing suspension components with ANY car I know one always would tighten things up just a little, then get the vehicle on its own wheel before actually setting torque spec. Because when tightening things up the bushings are locked in position relative to the body/frame. They "twist" when a control arm is in motion. So they end up having a "home" position. When you raise a vehicle they will never be in that home position and instead be always under stress and twisted. So an alignment will let then settle back. But you need to mention this when getting the alignment so they loosen things enough to let the bushings twist back.