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Hey guys. Long time lurker and first time poster, happy to be here. I just bought my second Land Rover after owning a 2000 Discovery II that I absolutely loved. I’ve been wanting an LR3 for a while, because even 10+ years later I still think they are the best looking SUVs on the road. Anyway, I test drove a few LR3s at a local and trusty Land Rover shop and fell in love with a beautiful Rimini Red 2007 LR3 SE V8 with tan interior and only 108k miles. It has a pretty decent service record (https://imgur.com/a/l14MX), has had the bushings and air suspension compressor replaced (among other items), and most importantly - she drives GREAT. The only issue (that I can see) is a warped front windshield cowling, so I’ll probably just make a custom aluminum guard to block water from entering the air system and ruining anything electronic, however, the warp is so minuscule that I might just test my luck. My main question is this: I know these babies need regular maintenance every 7.5k miles or so, and as a new owner who wants to do things right this time around, I want my first service to be pretty extensive and cover all of the bases. With that being said, what all should I consider getting serviced? Eventually, I want to learn how to do a little work myself, but one thing at a time, right? I'm thinking my first priority needs to be differential and transfer case fluids. Thoughts? Questions?
Transmission flush and metal pan upgrade should be high on your list then diffs and transfer case fluids. Brake switch replacement or at least purchase and keep handy is also recommended.
Folks say tie-rods wear out quickly on these. I replaced one side so far (110k miles) and either the factory original or OEM replacement to be worn but without noticeable play. But it sure flopped around in hand easily so I was happy to replace and will do the other side when the death blizzard here is done.
A replacement windshield cowling is under $100 and takes like 15 minutes to swap.
That’s true, but being a novice with vehicle repairs/maintenance, it would probably take me an hour or two (maybe I’m just being tough in myself). Also, only a small piece in the middle is coming up and it’s covered by the windshield wiper. As of now, I haven’t even noticed any water but I’ll definitely be on the lookout. It’s the passenger side floorboard I should be checking, right? I’m conveniently under a flood watch here in NC so I guess I’ll know for sure in the morning lol
Transmission flush and metal pan upgrade should be high on your list then diffs and transfer case fluids. Brake switch replacement or at least purchase and keep handy is also recommended.
I contacted a very well respected independent LR shop about the fluid changes and they said both differentials and the transfer case should cost around $350, which doesn’t sound that bad. I also asked about the Transmission and they didn’t give me a straight answer - they said something along the lines of “when you come in we can take a look at your transmission and go over the options”. Not really sure what the “options” might be, but I think that response just means that they don’t want to waste time on something if they don’t have to. Maybe there’s a chance the Transmission is okay? Not sure. It seems to work fine.
Folks say tie-rods wear out quickly on these. I replaced one side so far (110k miles) and either the factory original or OEM replacement to be worn but without noticeable play. But it sure flopped around in hand easily so I was happy to replace and will do the other side when the death blizzard here is done.
Thanks for the info. I’ll check the tie rods at some point today.
UPDATE: Tie Rods have zero play. I didn’t see anything in the service records, but I guess it’s possible that they were replaced.
I contacted a very well respected independent LR shop about the fluid changes and they said both differentials and the transfer case should cost around $350, which doesn’t sound that bad. I also asked about the Transmission and they didn’t give me a straight answer - they said something along the lines of “when you come in we can take a look at your transmission and go over the options”. Not really sure what the “options” might be, but I think that response just means that they don’t want to waste time on something if they don’t have to. Maybe there’s a chance the Transmission is okay? Not sure. It seems to work fine.
$350 for fluid drain and refill is a rip, trans probably is ok but for longevity its best to fit the metal pan with removable filter and do a flush as opposed to replacing the plastic pan/filter combo each time.
Welcome to the fold. As much as people say the LR 3/4 are sensitive and need a lot of maintenance, I would actually say its more a case ensure you take care of the standard things like oil, fluids, general scheduled maintenance and then deal with the rest as you go.
Since owning mine (12 months) I've done the following.
Diffs and transfer case twice as they are not inexpensive to replace and regular oil changes are key. Its pretty easy to do all of them - no more than an afternoons work for a real novice
I have the kit to do the transmission fluid change. I'll be doing myself as dealers charge a small fortune and even indy shops will sting you for a fair amount as its a bit of a job, but worth doing.
Engine oil twice - the sump pan is the biggest pain for that job
Front rotors and pads, I elected to go for EBC rather than OEM as this is the second LR3 I've owned and anytime I've fitted OEM brake pads/rotors I've ended up with warped issues. The rotors and pads were changed by the garage I purchased it from as part of the sale and 6 moths later I had terrible judder. The EBC kit is much better and not a lot more in term of cost
I took off the rear bumper plastic to access the rear bumper as it had very heavy surface rust. Cleaned and repainted with rust paint. Fixed a couple of broken wires I found at the same time.
Fixed a loose heat shield underneath
Under-sealed the entire truck
Adjusted the hood catch as it was not locking
Replaced one front hub (pig of a job as old one was totally rusted in place). Also had to replace ABS sensor as it was damaged during removal of hub.
Plus some other very minor things.
I check for play in the suspension linkage every few months and ensure anything that needs grease is greased.
By comparison other vehicles I've owned have run about the same in overall maintenance costs.
If you don't have it already, get the Gap tool, its worth every penny. Had I not had it, I would have been totally stuck when I damaged the ABS sensor as it effected so much else. At least with the gap tool I was able to set the EAS access height higher so I was not riding on the bump stops for a few days, even thought the truck was stuck in access mode. I was also able to reset all the fault codes once the new sensor was installed.
Bottom line, regular general maintenance is the key
$350 for fluid drain and refill is a rip, trans probably is ok but for longevity its best to fit the metal pan with removable filter and do a flush as opposed to replacing the plastic pan/filter combo each time.
That’s good to know - thanks. I visited my grandfather over the weekend and asked him about the fluid changes. He’s pushing 80 years old but has been a master mechanic and car enthusiast for most of his adult life. He has owned almost every car under the sun, drove them all over the US, and even owned a race team at one point - basically, this guy knows vehicles. He previously did a bunch of work on my 2000 Discovery II and familiarized himself with the brand. To make a long story short, he thinks that LRs are some of the most well-built and solid vehicles out there. Also, he said they are a breeze to work on. After talking about it, he said he would guide me through the process of changing out the fluids. I feel much better about the situation and car wait to learn something useful. What fluids are you guys using? I know there are countless posts out there, just figured I would ask.
04-14-2018, 09:59 PM
New LR3 Owner (Quick Question)
