Hey guys, just bought my first Rover. It's a 2005 LR3 with 118k miles. I've always loved these, and I love a good project too. I bought this one for $1k non-running. I thought I'd sign up here to document my efforts to get this beast back on the road, and hopefully get some suggestions from the community here. So here's the story:

Previous owner says it was running fine before. Motor, trans, air suspension all good. He came out of the grocery one day to find the horn blowing steady. Got in, started it, and it continued blowing. Drove a couple blocks, stopped at a gas station, pulled the horn fuse. Tried to restart, and it wouldn't start. Towed it home. He says he's tried several suggestions from YouTube and forums since, but no luck. He doesn't have time for it, moving out of state, and didn't want to take it to the dealer for what he expected would be a large bill.

I'm getting the following faults when the key is turned on:
-Transmission fault limited gears available
-Apply handbrake
-Transmission fault traction reduced
-Park brake fault auto release not functional
-HDC fault system not available
-Engine system fault
-Low coolant level

I also hooked up my cheapo OBD reader and got the following codes:
Confirmed:
U0100 Lost communication with ECM/PCM "A"
U0001 High speed CAN communication bus
Pending:
U0100 Lost communication with ECM/PCM "A"
U0122 Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module
U0001 High speed CAN communication bus

When I try to start, I hear nothing from the starter, just a click that sounds like maybe a relay behind the passenger side dash.

So far I have:
-Removed battery and connected positive and negative cables together overnight
-Accessed the TCCM where I saw some minor corrosion. Noticed a manufacture date of April 2019, so replaced not so long ago. I cleaned each pin with CRC electronic cleaner and q tips, and used some dielectric grease. Also noted one pin had broken off, and someone had cut that wire on the harness and run a wire soldered into the TCCM, bypassing the pin.
-Battery in the truck was too small. Not sure why. I went to the local Land Rover salvage yard and got a used Interstate MTP-H8 that tested good. Charged up, and installed.
-Cleared OBD codes. They came right back.
-Confirmed all outside lights are working, including the brake lights.
-Covered with a tarp, and I've been running a dehumidifier inside to try and get it dried out. I believe it has more than one leak, and carpet was very wet in some areas. I suspect the sunroof drains, I also noticed the windshield cowl is warped.
-Swapped relays 12 and 13

So far, I'm getting the same codes, and no start. Any suggestions on what to try next?

 

Is it possible to move this thread? Looks like more activity on the LR3 forum. Can I repost there?

 

Do you know if the vehicle was towed or put on a flat bed? These vehicles can't be towed without causing damage to the drive train.

 

Have you pulled the starter and had it tested to confirm it is good?

Also when you go to start it is P displaying on the dash? If not does pressure forward on the shifter cause it to flicker on or is the shifter extremely stiff to move?

 

According to PO it was brought back to his house on a flat bed. Same when I moved it.

I'll check the shifter when I have the battery back in. IIRC, it was displaying P on the dash, and I was able to move it through the different settings without issue. P seemed to stop it from rolling, and N allowed it to. There is as "F" showing on the dash next to the P, which I think means "Fault". I can also engage and disengage the parking brake without issue.

Last night I tried jumping the pins on the starter relay with the key in the run position. Motor turned over strong, but didn't fire. I think this test would rule out the battery, ground wiring, and starter as the issue, right?

Seems like an electrical problem.

Today I pulled out the cluster and disconnected the wiring on the back. Contacts are clean, and I don't see any obvious problems there. Reconnected, and tried to start, no change in the errors shown, and wiggling the connector around made no difference.

 

Right now I'm focusing on the Integrated Transfer Case Control Module (TCCM). This is very suspect to me. Like I said before, I can see that it was replaced in April 2019. Also, because a pin was broken, someone snipped that wire on the harness, and spliced one from it directly into the TCCM, bypassing the pin.



See purple wire with green stripe. Does anyone know what this wire is for?



This is what it looks like inside the TCCM. Notice the red wire that has been soldered in to bypass the broken pin. I don't know much about electrical, but this wire looks significantly smaller gauge that the purple wire with green stripe from the factory wire harness. Could that be a problem? Also, the insulation on the red wire was failing where it went through the box, although not bad enough to contact the box and short out.

 

That is the most screwed up repair I have seen I think.

Yeah I would start there

 

May have made progress... I basically did the same repair on the TCCM as the previous owner, but used 14 gauge wire:





Did a hard reset, installed the battery (showing 12.9 volts), and tried to start. I'm getting mostly the same fault messages on the dash as before. What's new is the hazards flashing and doors locking and unlocking when I turn the key on. Also the yellow "Lo" with mountain symbol flashing. Don't recall that before. Still won't turn over. I also tried jumping the starter relay again with the key on, turns well, but will not start.

I checked codes with my OBD reader, and it appears that the changes I made to the TCCM may have solved one of them? U0001 "High speed CAN communication bus" is no longer there. Codes I'm still getting:

Confirmed:
U0100 Lost communication with ECM/PCM "A"
Pending:
U0100 Lost communication with ECM/PCM "A"
U0122 Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module

Other things I tried today:
-Checked tail light bulbs. Found one with one of two filaments burned out. Replaced. Didn't check third brake light
-Disconnected, reconnected, and tapped on cluster.
-Tried flicking key on and off rapidly before start
-Swapped relays 6 and 7
-Found a blown fuse F 13 in engine compartment. Replaced. This looks important... ECU? Fuel pump?
-Found fuse F 16 in engine compartment empty. Installed one. Heated door mirrors? I may not have that option
-Pulled fuse F 65 from glove box fuse box. Don't think there is supposed to be one there.
-Swapped sizes on a couple fuses in engine compartment that were wrong: F 24 (20 amp, was 25), F9 (15 amp, was 10)

None of the above seemed to made a difference. No start. Also, I forgot to mention before, but key fobs do not lock/unlock doors. I plan to check passenger floor wires when I get it dried out good.

What can I try next? Do the hazards and doors locking point to anything?

 

It started! But I could use some help with the new codes it's throwing.

I checked codes again last night, and suddenly there were like 14 confirmed and 18 pending. I think I wasn't able to see all those codes before because the blown fuse F 13 was preventing communication with the ECU? After clearing codes, it started right up. This morning I did a hard reset, cleared codes, and started again.

I'm still dealing with lots of faults. Compressor runs, but shuts off. Suspension won't raise, "Special programs unavailable," Parking brake fault, etc. I haven't tried driving it yet.

I'm getting the following codes now:

Confirmed:
U0102 “Lost communication with transfer case control module"
U0121 “Lost communication with anti-lock brake (ABS) control module”
P240B “Manufacturer defined” (Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Control Circuit Low?)
P2525 “Vacuum reservoir pressure sensor circuit”
P0504 “Brake switch “A”/”B” correlation”

Pending:
Same as confirmed plus one more
U0122 “Lost Communication with vehicle dynamics control module” (Same as ABS module?)

I picked up an aftermarket brake switch from Advance Auto just to try it. Installed, cleared codes, started, checked codes again, and no changes. Did not do a hard reset after installing the brake switch, but doubt it matters.

Does anyone have a suggestion to try next? Does this combination of codes point to anything specific? I'm pretty stumped.

 

It seems like there is still an issue related to the TCM from what I am reading here