Thank you to all that contributed to the “pre-inspection” checklist sticky and to those that responded to my earlier post asking some questions on the LR3 during my search for one. I finally pulled the trigger a few weeks ago picking up an '08 Tonga/Alpaca HSE Lux, 1 owner, 76K miles. CA most of its life, then TX. Very very happy with the find. Been looking for many months, didn’t get 100% of what I ideally wanted (doesn’t have the HD pkg and I didn’t need DVD that is has) but it checks all the other boxes. Even came with fairly new DuraTracs which is a nice bonus.

Fair price paid (I thought at the time). Ran the CarFax which had the early service history but in recent years became vague but still low miles per year. Hired the Lemon Squad to do the 3rd party inspection as I live 1500 miles from the independent used dealership. Lemon Squad reported it in "excellent" condition, no mechanical issues, no noises, a/c, heat, accessories all working. Super excited for it to arrive and already planned to get all the fluids changed, inspected by local indy LR shop.

It arrived, and wow. I couldn't have been happier. Waaaay cleaner than expected. Almost too nice of condition TBH where I’m almost tempted to park it away from other cars since it doesn’t have a door ding. Interior driver seat barely looks sat in and rest of interior is immaculate (quickly changing with my 3 and 4 year olds).

Now the gotcha part. I drove it the first time (was cold, windows up). Solid. Some noticeable tire noise up to 25 mph or so with the Duratracs. Impressed with how smooth they roll on the highway and relatively quite too. Honestly amazed that it cruises so well at 80 mph. Then as I was driving slowly through the neighborhood with the windows down and that’s when I heard it. Slow grinding noise as if there is a pebble stuck between the rotor and brakes… but not as high pitched. The Indy shop confirmed the rear diff is going. I was ticked at the Lemon Squad inspector for missing it, as it would have been at least something to use to negotiate further, they did give me a refund at least.

So my big question now is… do I put in an ARB rear locker with the replacement? I could also do the Lucky8 Kit: https://www.lucky8llc.com/collection...ear-locker-kit From what I read this is the time to do a locker with the diff replacement, however I won’t be doing any significant off-roading anytime soon where I envision using a locker. Eventually want to build it into an overland truck in a few years once my kids are older - but definitely before a new diff would need replacing again. Do I sink the $ into the ARB now? Is it an option to install it without adding the air and all the labor with it for now? For example run it for a couple years and then add the compressor, airlines, etc in the future so its not all invested right now?

Would appreciate the forum's input. Thank you!

 

If I was planning to wheel the LR3 and I had the cash then yes all day long I would go with ARB Locker.

It is just not in my budget right now, but someday I hope to add it,

You could install it with out the compressor but, for what little extra cost there is to add the compressor it would seem criminal to not make the locker function. Also I would check with them about being able to cap or block off the air line fitting on the diff to make sure nothing gets contaminated

 

 

I'd use this opportunity to add the ARB.

 

You need the compressor to operate the locker otherwise it wont be a locker.

 

How did the indy shop confirm the diff was bad? Did they drop the lube and inspect it or just a "test drive"? If it were me, I'd drop the rear diff lube myself. Clean out whatever your using to catch the lube, preferably a drain pan and drain the diff fluid into the pan. Look at the fluid in the sunlight. Swirl it around in the pan and look for metal particles. Small "floating" particles are normal. I let the pan settle overnight and then drain off most of the lube and see what has settled to the bottom of the pan. If it's a silvery paste or has chunks in it then you'll want to consider further inspection or replacement. Like other have said, it could be a hub bearing too. I'd confirm whats really wrong before planning on replacing the rear diff. This is all off the table.of course, if your trying to justify the ARB locker to your better half... It's bad and needs replacing right away!

 

This is the only way to be certain:

 

that is pretty cool

 

They work great. A bit of a production to set up, but way better than a mis-diagnosis.

 

Check that out! That tool could have full time employment with all the rattle traps that I drive. Thanks for sharing that abran!