New to me LR3 stuck between high and low
Hello,
I just bought a 2006 LR3 SE and while driving it home I noticed the green low range light blinking on the dash and it drove like it was in low range. I stopped put into neutral and tried to switch into high range but it does nothing. I limped it mostly home and when I came to my last stop on a slight incline it appeared to of dropped out of low gear and now seems like it's in between h and L. As of now it won't drive and when put into D or R I just get gear grinding. Is there a linkage I can manually move it into high range or the time being? Or what should I be checking out as the issue?
I just bought a 2006 LR3 SE and while driving it home I noticed the green low range light blinking on the dash and it drove like it was in low range. I stopped put into neutral and tried to switch into high range but it does nothing. I limped it mostly home and when I came to my last stop on a slight incline it appeared to of dropped out of low gear and now seems like it's in between h and L. As of now it won't drive and when put into D or R I just get gear grinding. Is there a linkage I can manually move it into high range or the time being? Or what should I be checking out as the issue?
There is a DC motor that moves the transfer case from High to Low. This motor is controlled by an ECU on the firewall behind the battery.
Without knowing any fault codes we would just be guessing what may be wrong.
Jeff
Without knowing any fault codes we would just be guessing what may be wrong.
Jeff
Thanks, I just ordered an icarsoft v3.0 scan tool to get/clear codes So I won't have that until it comes in. I think I saw a thread where they were able to.apply 12v to that motor to get it into fully into a gear. Anyone know what pin ill be applying the 12v to if I were to attempt this?
Also I ordered a replacement TCCM as I hear they can get corroded. The guy did say it had been sitting for awhile. They also just recently put in a Brad new battery (sticker says 5/25). I checked a few fuses, they all looked ok.
Last edited by Nahuebsch82; Aug 2, 2025 at 04:00 PM.
I dont know if the icarsoft can calibrate the transfer case, but after pulling codes that could be a next step - depending on those codes. But have you checked fluid level? And while the motor could be an issue the usual culprit is the shift solenoid which is pretty easy to remove but a little tricky to install.
I dont know if the icarsoft can calibrate the transfer case, but after pulling codes that could be a next step - depending on those codes. But have you checked fluid level? And while the motor could be an issue the usual culprit is the shift solenoid which is pretty easy to remove but a little tricky to install.
Underneath. Really easy to get to. When removing not much fluid will come out. Can jack the truck up at an angle to stop fluid form coming out. It is silver and round with a two-wire connection. Need to figure a way to apply 12v to energize it for reinstall unless your tool can do it. On that note, I am not sure if it normally operates at 12v cause mine got hot when I energized, very hot.
No, it means there is a fault and it does not always mean the transfer case is an issue. Although your physical symptoms imply it is. But it can fault like that for other reasons such and transmission overheat. With the LR3, transmission includes transfer case and rear diff too.
No, it means there is a fault and it does not always mean the transfer case is an issue. Although your physical symptoms imply it is. But it can fault like that for other reasons such and transmission overheat. With the LR3, transmission includes transfer case and rear diff too.


