I recently had my compressor replaced due to the "slow to raise" code and intermittent yellow suspension light, along with sounding very tired and running a lot. The new compressor (Hitachi) seems to be running about the same amount on a cold start: about 2 minutes, then off for 30 seconds, then on for another 30 or so before staying off. A hot start, or a start within a few hours it runs 10-20 seconds if at all.

Any good way to check for leaks with an IID tool? I tried soapy water on the reservoir but no bubbles. Is it normal for it to run that long on a cold start, or do I likely have a leak in the reservoir?

 

It usually does run a bit on cold starts. But 2 minutes is a lot. The best way to find a leak during a cold start is to see which end raises the most. Usually rear goes up first and quickest. If the raising is slow then you probably do in fact have a leaking reservoir so its all up to the compressor to get it back to ride height. Leaks can be in valve blocks or struts.

 

OK so I do have a leak. It is right at the blue connection (line leading to the valve block). I popped it off and the line itself looks fine. Put it back in firmly and it is still leaking. Any creative ideas on how to fix a leak at this connection? Would a new line work?

 

So a leak at the dryer cap? Since the compressor it new, that rules out the common crack between the two pipes ports. My guess is the line has been abused, pretty common if one does not know how to release them properly. The line end gets scratched up bad by the collet and then it will not seal against the internal o-ring. So normally you can just cut the end off the line to get a better interface. Assuming the o-ring has not been damaged too.

 

It didn't look too scratched up when I took it off, some small marks, but nothing seriously chewed up. I guess that might be all it takes? Hopefully if I just cut off the damaged part and reinsert it should be good to go. Thanks for the quick response!

Do I need to use any specific tools (i.e. does the cut need to be a perfectly perpendicular or not squash the pipe at all)?

 

 

Wow, I looked up what this tiny piece of tube costs thinking it might be easier to just replace it: $77. For four inches of curved plastic pipe.

the problem with cutting it is there is a molded collar in the pipe that would interfere with the locking mechanism if cut too short, preventing it from being inserted deep enough into the fitting. Maybe 1/8 of an inch could be cut off.

Is there anything I can put on there to help the seal? It’s a tiny leak. Looks like the red line above it has something white on it where it joins the fitting.

 

Since its never, ever inserted to the stop there is room to cut. If it has been inserted that far, its been done wrong and probably damaged the collet. But you dont have to cut much really, just a couple millimeters may do for testing as you just want the o-ring to rest on a new spot. Remember, its a 249psi system at full and a small leak can actually be significant. The line itself is just 6mm, so any high pressure 6mm hose material should work. You can get it on Amazon for cheap. I have a roll as repair backup hose. If the collet is damaged, you can maybe source a new one but entire dryer caps are available online (eBay) and the metal ones are nice.

 

A deeper dive and you might find just the pipe for even less.

 

That’s for the orange connector. The blue connector pipe is different and goes to the valve block.