New suspension compressor running just as long as the old
#12
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Since its never, ever inserted to the stop there is room to cut. If it has been inserted that far, its been done wrong and probably damaged the collet. But you dont have to cut much really, just a couple millimeters may do for testing as you just want the o-ring to rest on a new spot. Remember, its a 249psi system at full and a small leak can actually be significant. The line itself is just 6mm, so any high pressure 6mm hose material should work. You can get it on Amazon for cheap. I have a roll as repair backup hose. If the collet is damaged, you can maybe source a new one but entire dryer caps are available online (eBay) and the metal ones are nice.
Every time I take off that line it has a lot of pressure, making a loud pop. Is that normal?
#13
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Loose collet is 100% normal, they kinda flop around even with a line installed. The key is the o-ring inside, they do all the sealing.
The gallery normally has some pressure, it does bleed out over time. Some trucks faster, some slower. The reservoir on the other hand, that has a ton of air but its sealed off from the gallery via the center block.
The gallery normally has some pressure, it does bleed out over time. Some trucks faster, some slower. The reservoir on the other hand, that has a ton of air but its sealed off from the gallery via the center block.
#14
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Well I tried cutting the line with a clean cut, twice. Still leaking. I’m thinking it isn’t the line but the collet.
As long as the valve block works, a leak here would only mean a bit of the air from the compressor is lost when it is running, right? Just trying to think what the impact is of a small leak and if it is worth ripping apart the compressor to put a new dryer cap on. Seems like this would only be the gallery pressure and isolated from the rest of the system.
As long as the valve block works, a leak here would only mean a bit of the air from the compressor is lost when it is running, right? Just trying to think what the impact is of a small leak and if it is worth ripping apart the compressor to put a new dryer cap on. Seems like this would only be the gallery pressure and isolated from the rest of the system.
#15
#16
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Right, what I mean is, it isn’t likely the source of the issue since air can’t leak back out from the reservoir through this connection. The system has no issue raising or lowering, and on hot starts the compressor doesn’t run for an extended amount of time, seeming to indicate that this is not the source of the leak causing the compressor to run longer than normal. Or is that logic wrong?
#17
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Assuming the center valve block not leaking at the reservoir seal, then correct the reservoir can not leak out. The area of impact will be when filling since there is a leak. That means when the compressor is running and or the reserver opens to fill things. When not running the gallery will leak down fast, but that is not a big deal since its normally dumped before the compressor runs or after a cycle. If the gallery remains a full pressure the compressor would have to fight very hard to get its initial spin up. Flips side with any leak is that if air can get out there is a chance water can get in.
#18
#19
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I might just live with it for now as I consider options. The suspension doesn't sink at all over long periods, so I don't think I have a leak in a valve block or strut and I sprayed all but the front and rear blocks down with soapy water and saw no leaks. The truck has been giving me a ton of problems all of a sudden and I'm thinking it may be time (despite it being the worst time to buy a car). I don't trust it any more on long trips, which is what it was primarily used for. It might make a great off road project for someone else given it has the rear locker.