New valve blocks without dryer foolish?
#1
New valve blocks without dryer foolish?
My LR3 has been occasionally dropping when left for long periods (days) since shortly after I picked it up. I've tested the suspension by removing the fuse for the self leveling and had somewhat inconclusive results. The front left seemed to drop the most, but only by about an inch. All other corners also dropped. The numbers below are after about 5 days.
RR 2.75" drop
RF 3.5" drop
LF 3" drop
LR 1.75" drop
I get no compressor codes, nor long/loud compressor runs. It runs for about 25-30 seconds on start up and lifts it up quickly. It sometimes drops more quickly seemingly randomly.
My question is, should I tear into the compressor to look for issues with the dryer before replacing the valve blocks? The valve blocks seem easier (and cheaper), but I'm guessing they'll just get gunked up again if it is the dryer desiccant getting in them. I'm assuming my results above probably mean both blocks are leaking?
RR 2.75" drop
RF 3.5" drop
LF 3" drop
LR 1.75" drop
I get no compressor codes, nor long/loud compressor runs. It runs for about 25-30 seconds on start up and lifts it up quickly. It sometimes drops more quickly seemingly randomly.
My question is, should I tear into the compressor to look for issues with the dryer before replacing the valve blocks? The valve blocks seem easier (and cheaper), but I'm guessing they'll just get gunked up again if it is the dryer desiccant getting in them. I'm assuming my results above probably mean both blocks are leaking?
#2
You need to refresh the dryer. Operate it for a bit (week or two?) to purge some of the particulates through the system. Or you can manually flush all the lines. But from what I saw rebuilding my blocks, the tiny white particle seemed to be the issue with them leaking. I would not risk it.
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