So, good news, my LR3 is now a lot smoother and quieter. I replaced both front left and right inner and outer tie rods, replaced front brake rotors and pads, bled the whole brake system and put fresh brake fluid in, changed transfer case oil, changed front diff oil, and swapped out the front driver (left) side half shaft (because of rip in one of the rubber boots). I did all the work myself. Also had new tires fitted - Went with Firestone Destination A/T, 265/60R18.

But, I still have a 'noise' which I thought was bad tires. Previous Tires had some uneven wear, and I was told the noise was because they were probably 'cupped'.

The noise is not a constant 'drone' such as the noise that is made by bad wheel bearings. It is a 'wup wup wup', fairly low in pitch, and I think it's very slightly worse when turning, either left or right, in the sense that the noise goes away when the steering wheel is pointed at a very specific place, slight left of center. Turning one or 2 degrees either way, and the noise returns. I believe the noise is there at all road speeds - Not very loud, so can't hear it at all times as I drive faster. I have no shakes, rattles, or vibrations anywhere.

I know the front diff's can be an issue on these vehicles - I can't say if the fluid was ever changed. I have just over 90,000 miles on it. I have the magnetic front diff drain plug, and there was an even coating of metallic 'paste' (combination of very fine metal shavings and diff oil), approx 2mm build up on the plug. In other words, no pieces of metal large enough to suggest front diff is bad.

Ties Plus, where I purchased the Tires, said they did not want to put the vehicle on their ramps and diagnose with wheels turning, because they were concerned about damaging the Air Suspension system.

Any suggestions?

 

You sound like you are not afraid of your Land Rover but your tyre guys are.

If they are, they are probably doing you a favor in running away. Guys who know nothing about it but claim they know all may start jacking it up old pickup solid axle style with a single rear end jack centered on the rear differential - remember, you are in America now and the 3 is that foreign stuff.

You might just jack up each front corner, one wheel at a time so the rubber is off the pavement - actually you might have to jack both tyres up and try hand rotating them to see if you can hear anything. I do not think you need all four off the ground for any rotation to happen but ....

If you have some kind of big polisher/drill that rotates, you might be able to use it to spin up the wheels as well.

 

Update - Someone over at the disco3.co.uk forum said it could be a Wheel Bearing that's starting to go bad. Suggested changing both (front). I don't mind doing this - I've researched how to do it, doesn't seem too difficult. It's an all-in-one Hub and Bearing unit, so at least I won't have to go and buy a 20 ton Press from Harbor Freight... It's got about 90,000 miles on it, so I guess it could certainly be time to swap out the Wheel Bearings. Thoughts? I'll start doing a little research to find the highest quality parts at the cheapest cost, but if anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be appreciated. I will also do some deeper research into wheel bearings, especially early-warning symptoms. I'm perfectly happy doing necessary, and preventative, maintenance, but I don't want to throw time and money into the car unnecessarily. Do you think I could self-diagnose a wheel bearing that's starting to go? With a stethoscope?

 

Chassis Ears are needed really.

Wheel Bearings
CV Joints
Diffs

These are some of the magical things that are sometimes incredibly difficult to diagnose because the sound travels on the frame.

What you have done, and plan to do makes sense at this mileage. The transmission fluid is due (in my opinion) as well as the transfer case and diffs for oil change. The diffs should be done every 30k miles. Probably the diffs have gotten noisy.

 

Thanks "Unseenone"

I forgot to mention that I had the Transmission Fluid changed a month ago (1,000 miles ago). No issues previously , and no issues since - Did it as preventative measure, using the correct fluid. Also I did change Front Diff Fluid, and also Transfer Case Fluid. Planning on changing Rear Diff Fluid within next couple of weeks (Locking Diff - Will be using the correct Fluid).

The cost of the complete Front Passenger (right) Half Shaft is only $75, and it looks like I can get new Bearing / Hub assemblies for less than $100 each, so I may just go ahead and swap out these additional 3 things - Can't hurt, and I figure it's at the mileage where they may go soon anyway.