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Wow, that shield is toast! Mine it holding up much better but I may picked something soon while OEM and aftermarket are still around. I plan to have the truck a loooooong time.
Ok, everything is installed. The half shafts ended up being relatively simply once I got the necessary parts out of the way. I did need to remove the heigh sensor rubber arm from its mount, and I need to lift up the knuckle, but I did not need to remove the strut bolt.
Below is a picture of my setup to lift the knuckle out of the way without assistance. I hooked a ratchet strap on a control arm on the other side of the car, and used the ratchet to lift the knuckle to give me room to install the half shaft without having to also hold up the knuckle. I used OEM retaining rings on the half shafts which made reseating relatively easy.
I also installed the drive shaft, but I need to torque all the bolts down for everything from here.
Here are the torque specs that I collected, anybody know the transfer case to front of driveshaft torque specs?
This morning I filled the rear diff with the locking differential gear fluid then checked that both batteries were fully charged. Then I engaged my auxiliary battery (this added about 0.2 volts to my system overall) and flashed the CCF file with the GAP IID tool. Success! The car now sees it has a locking rear differential. This was followed by a second success -- I was able to run the rear differential service test with the GAP tool! Now I just need to torque everything in place, clean up and reattach the exhaust a do a road test. Will probably need a few days to have some time in the evenings to do that.
Is the harness that's required for the e-diff a complete part ? just thinking that i might start looking for the required parts starting with the harness.
It's a couple harnesses if memory servers. Basically there are (this is from memory so I might miss a connection) 3 lines from the US passenger side cabin fuse box and area (the big wire has a separate connector from the fuse box), and you need to reconfigure the high and low speed CAN lines feeding the center console. Just make sure you do the rewiring with the battery disconnected. So that's like one large body harness, but with fuse taps, soldering new CAN wires in place, you don't need that harness.
The harness that would be really useful would be the diff controller to diff harness, but again I could not find it and so my work around was just to acquire the controller and diff with cut-off connectors attached. I carefully made my own harnesses, there are 10 wires here total. The advantage of this approach -- in addition to cost -- is that I made the diff harness about 18 inches longer than it needed to be. This gave me some flexibility and some extra room when attaching the cable to the diff motor.
I did need to reprogram the diff controller, by the way. As I wrote in another thread on the topic last night, I did through a P080A error from the rear diff. The GAP tool identified that my firmware in the controller was out of spec and that new firmware was available. The GAP fast lane service worked great, the reflash of the controller worked fine, and last night I was able to clear the P080A and have the code stay off. Because you need to change the CCF and at least run the service test on the diff if not also upgrade the firmware, a GAP tool or similar is required.
Just make sure it locks independent of the center diff. Because by default a system with no rear locker will still show the lock. But it will lock, unlock both at the same time. Basically lying about there being a rear locking diff. This was changed with the LR4. But with a rear locker, you will instead see only the rear locker lock and the center may or may not. But it is no longer showing both locking at the same time.
11-20-2023, 09:26 PM
