Hi, all, I haven't posted to this forum before instead have just read up. I acquired my LR3 SE several years ago and have been adding various OEM upgrades. To date I've added factory:

• parking brake sensors
• headlight washers
• navigation (slow but I wanted the 4x4 information screen)
• rain sensor
• HID headlights

Next up on my list is to install the factory electronic locking differential. I've acquired the required parts (various electrical connectors / wiring, the locking differential, new rear axles, etc.) and I have the GAP IID tool to adjust the configuration files once it's installed. I've already run the wiring, now I just need to start the work. I'll probably wait a few weeks until it's warmer. Anyway, I'll post my progress in this thread.

 

I.ve read its a lot of work so looking forward to the install update.

 

Just finding the parts took time, and in fact I could not locate the wiring harnesses but was able to get all of the connectors and so made my own harnesses. I'll put some pictures up of the electrical which probably took ~8-10 hours to install. I ran cables from the front right cabin fuse box and connectors to the differential controller, and then had to remove the center console to tap into the high and low CAN wires feeding into the terrain selector switch. There are 10 separate wires that go from the controller to the diff, and these had to be routed through the weather-resistant seal in the rear left quarter panel.

As for the job itself, I go back and forth on whether I do it myself or I outsource it. For now I think I will do it myself, but here's the summary of the requirements:

1. get all 4 wheels off the ground and pull exhaust
2. remove bolts holding prop shaft to diff
3. remove various bolts holding control arms to each rear hub (the calipers, rotors, ABS and emergency brake lines can -- as far as I can tell -- remain in place)
4. press out the axles and remove axles from diff
5. remove diff (which is heavy)
6. reverse order on the install

 

^ Yup, that is the "why it can not be done" part. There is not pre-existing harness on non-optioned vehicles. Unlike, say, the cubby cooler, etc. I dont think you will have an issue swapping the diff. Just make sure the vehicle is WELL secured on cribs or such. Def let us know how it goes, I can't think of anyone who has actually dont this on the forum.

 

This is generally correct. The lines that need to be added are: 1) to the diff controller (from memory so maybe I miss a couple here) a large power supply line (it's either 30 or 40 A), a smaller 'wake up' power supply, the two CAN lines; and 2) all 10 wires from the controller to the diff. The only part that I found was pre-wired in my 2006 SE trim line was the 30 or 40 A power supply line was pre-wired into the passenger cabin, and adding a connector to the existing housing was easy. As for the wake-up line, that is keyed off fuse 24 and I tapped into that fuse. For the CAN wiring, I had lots leftover from the OEM NAV install (I had picked up several sets of random LR3 wiring harnesses off eBay so I had around 20 feet of pre-twisted CAN line).

I am very lucky in this install in that it's been done I believe in Australia with a full writeup with pictures: https://www.disco3club.co.uk/gallery...%20Fitment.pdf

Here's some pictures of the wiring install, though I admit it's hard to see the soldering / splice work. First is just the center console pulled, and the second shows the re-wiring of the CAN lines. Not the most instructive pictures, I admit. As a side note, if anyone has wondered how to access the neutral override to get the car into neutral, it's that white plastic hook on the gear shifter and is accessible (though only by feel) without pulling the console.

 

UK plates on that car so done in the UK.

 

Ah, thanks for the correction!